ChrisFilter
Like a boss.
I guess nothing will ever get rid of 'cold air burn' in your lungs will it..?
Winter Cycling Tips
- Thread starter ChrisFilter
- Start date
gaijingirl
Well-Known Member
ChrisFilter said:
Vodka helps.
gaijingirl
Well-Known Member
The thing I find most important.. apart from a really good pair of glove... (not woolly ones, proper bike ones) is something to keep your ears warm. You can buy special "undercap" things for under your helmet. Or you can go for the headband type affair. On really cold days the tips of my ears will get very painful otherwise...
gentlegreen
I hummus, therefore I am ...
gaijingirl said:
gaijingirl
Well-Known Member
gentlegreen said:
No, I like to hear the cars before they hit me....
Sigmund Fraud
893 all the way.
Old Gammy Leg said:
Amen on both points.
WD40 stands for Water Displacer formula 40. Its a water displacer, NOT a lube. One of its ingredients is paraffin, paraffin is a degreaser. You're better of using no lube at all instead of spraying your chain and mechs with this stuff. If you must use a light lube use GT85 as it contains PTFE, but this isn't going to cut it on chains. Finish line cross country is a fiver for a bottle and lasts ages, I've tried em all and its the best out there imho.
gaijingirl
Well-Known Member
Sigmund Fraud said:
You know everything
!! *makes mental note to remember the WD40 fact for future pub quiz purposes*
*forgets it again*
Yup, like I say, Finish Line Cross Country is the best lube for bikes. Only place I would use WD40 is a quick squirt into the cable housings - but even then I'd use GT85, since as Sig says it contains Teflon.
It's also worth mentioning that you shouldn't use household "3-in-1" oil on bikes either - it's vegetable-based and will quickly attract dirt and turn into a sticky, gunky mess.
It's also worth mentioning that you shouldn't use household "3-in-1" oil on bikes either - it's vegetable-based and will quickly attract dirt and turn into a sticky, gunky mess.
I didn't know the WD thing either - but that is a perfect pub quiz question!
gentlegreen
I hummus, therefore I am ...
Rather embarassingly I bought a can of WD40 on impulse recently and it was unfortunately to hand when my motherboard chip fan ground to a halt 
(it didn't work of course and it simply turned the fluff in the heatsink to goo ... silicone furniture polish would have been more sensible had it been the fan blades rubbing and not the fan needing replacement)
If WD40 turns out to rot PCBs I will no doubt vanish from the boards for as long as it takes to get a new mobo installed !
("trust me - I'm a technician !")
(it didn't work of course and it simply turned the fluff in the heatsink to goo ... silicone furniture polish would have been more sensible had it been the fan blades rubbing and not the fan needing replacement)
If WD40 turns out to rot PCBs I will no doubt vanish from the boards for as long as it takes to get a new mobo installed !
("trust me - I'm a technician !")
gentlegreen
I hummus, therefore I am ...
everyone to their owngaijingirl said:No, I like to hear the cars before they hit me....
2wheeledathiest
I am sane, there is proof
Sigmund Fraud said:
I've got panracers (28mm) on my touring bike (wich gets used a lot in the winter, a peugot camargue) and still get good clearance for mudguards. Bust me front wheel on a concrete block last week though so have put some old mavic ma40s on. Anyone need two maillard hubs, or I will put them on e-bay?
Just off on a ride now, sky is clearing and the Hampshire hills beckon.
robotsimon
New Member
Finish Line is great but can be a bit gloopy (especially the wet weather stuff) which seems to make dirt and crap stick to the chain. I've recently started using Rock and Roll Extreme Chain Lube which is brilliant.
It's a thin blue liquid and you squirt is librally onto the chain, spin the cranks for a bit then wipe as much off as you can with a rag so you clean a load of the crap of your chain as you lube it. It's not as thorough a clean as taking the chain off and doing it properly but it's better than not cleaning it at all. It is pretty pricey and doesn't last that long though. But it smells great.
It's a thin blue liquid and you squirt is librally onto the chain, spin the cranks for a bit then wipe as much off as you can with a rag so you clean a load of the crap of your chain as you lube it. It's not as thorough a clean as taking the chain off and doing it properly but it's better than not cleaning it at all. It is pretty pricey and doesn't last that long though. But it smells great.
dylanredefined
Not a house elf a tiger
Ronhills ,hi tech boots ,seal skin socks, buffalo shirt gloves good enough for most conditions I found wrap anything in bags/panniers in a plastic bag no such thing as a waterproof bag set off earlier first 5 minutes is worse . buffs or headovers are better than scarfs shemaghs imho .
tommers
Currently in investor / advisor mode.
seal skinz. the greatest piece of equipment on this planet. "oh, what about the internal combustion engine, the wheel or the telephone?" I hear you say....
no.... seal skinz. if you are cycling for anything more than about half an hour in the rain then buy them. wear them. love them.
no.... seal skinz. if you are cycling for anything more than about half an hour in the rain then buy them. wear them. love them.
theres some well good advice on here, especially spare socks, but that goes for any time of year. last year i got wet feet so many times during my summer job when it rained, and my shoes were far from waterproof. the first time it happened i ended up having to walk round with no socks on while the socks were drying in the oven.
as for wd40, it should have got banned before smoking got banned
or at least it should have a public bicycle health warning "spraying wd40 in your bearings can harm your baby" or "using wd40 on your bike increases the risk of a slow, painful death"
i used to use it so liberally as a kid when i had my first bike. and on my 2nd bike for that matter. no wonder it didn't last.
as for wd40, it should have got banned before smoking got banned
or at least it should have a public bicycle health warning "spraying wd40 in your bearings can harm your baby" or "using wd40 on your bike increases the risk of a slow, painful death"i used to use it so liberally as a kid when i had my first bike. and on my 2nd bike for that matter. no wonder it didn't last.
Paulie Tandoori
shut it you egg!
A thin smear of vaseline for you lips will help greatly in ensuring that your mouth doesn't end up cracked and sore in cold and windy conditions, as does a bit of hand cream...how metrosexual
Paulie Tandoori
shut it you egg!
tommers said:i bet you shave your legs too!
I didn't but I might now
gentlegreen
I hummus, therefore I am ...
I used to use Body Shop hemp hand protector for "disco nipple"richtea said:AND, if you find you have 'chaffing issues', then lubing up your bits of a morning works wonders
.
gentlegreen
I hummus, therefore I am ...
I don't use fabric conditioner so after a few hours of leaping up and down at raves in my youth, wearing a rough cotton teeshirt, my delicate bits used to get somewhat tenderrichtea said:disco nipple?
.
2wheeledathiest
I am sane, there is proof
gentlegreen said:I don't use fabric conditioner so after a few hours of leaping up and down at raves in my youth, wearing a rough cotton teeshirt, my delicate bits used to get somewhat tender
.
We got some PT shirts at work a few years back with an embroidered badge on the chest.
Actually caused my right nipple to bleed during a run. Ouch
Have the same problem (to a lesser extent) with some bib shorts.
gentlegreen
I hummus, therefore I am ...
"New Lights and Panties"
Since my twice 4 mile daily commute is in traffic I need decent lights.
I'd weaned myself down to 10 watts of fluorescent for the front, and the rear 12volt 21 watt incandescent was going to be replaced with ultrabright red LEDs. So my battery requirements were getting less demanding.
But I fancy venturing further afield on my bike (I certainly need the exercise), so longer rides and maybe a spotlight to find my way off-road may push my battery requirement back the other way ...
For the past few years I have repeatedly wasted between 10 and 14 quid on 12volt 7a/h SLA batteries. I used to reckon on getting a winter and a half out of one, but last year's ten quid "bargain" from Toolstation is down to 1 A/h after only one winter and the odd night ride.
I hated the idea of buying NiCds because of the environmental implications and I already have a decent Maplin automatic SLA charger , so I was inclined towards Cyclon cells for one last attempt at lead acid.
My other thought was to profit from the boom in battery powered drills and start using drill battery packs ...
Anyway, after a bit of thinking and hunting around I have just ordered from a seller on Ebay :-
10 off 3.3 A/h tagged sub-c NiMH radio control cells - £16.50 (which is roughly the same "A/h per £" as 4.5A/h cyclon packs discounted at CPC) Sealed Lead Acid is half as much but of course they're cr*p
... and a smart charger for £11.50
I should have done this yonks ago !
If I remember, I will report back to say whether these are the bargain they appear to be.
I also ordered 20 ultrabright red LEDs (3 quid) to make a new rear light and hence hopefully get over 2 hours' running time out of my new batteries. They're rated at 5Cd but over 25 degrees which is a bit narrow, but I plan to mount them on an arc.
My 5 LED Cateye is OK - so this should be "adequate"
I also ordered 20 ultrabright white LEDs as an experiment to see if I can live with even less wattage - would be fine for cycletracks.
See - I've been quite restrained - my original intention was to use about 50 LEDs in my tail light
I'm hoping to standardise car cigarette lighter connectors and hence be able to carry an emergency pack of AA alkalines...
Since my twice 4 mile daily commute is in traffic I need decent lights.
I'd weaned myself down to 10 watts of fluorescent for the front, and the rear 12volt 21 watt incandescent was going to be replaced with ultrabright red LEDs. So my battery requirements were getting less demanding.
But I fancy venturing further afield on my bike (I certainly need the exercise), so longer rides and maybe a spotlight to find my way off-road may push my battery requirement back the other way ...
For the past few years I have repeatedly wasted between 10 and 14 quid on 12volt 7a/h SLA batteries. I used to reckon on getting a winter and a half out of one, but last year's ten quid "bargain" from Toolstation is down to 1 A/h after only one winter and the odd night ride.
I hated the idea of buying NiCds because of the environmental implications and I already have a decent Maplin automatic SLA charger , so I was inclined towards Cyclon cells for one last attempt at lead acid.
My other thought was to profit from the boom in battery powered drills and start using drill battery packs ...
Anyway, after a bit of thinking and hunting around I have just ordered from a seller on Ebay :-
10 off 3.3 A/h tagged sub-c NiMH radio control cells - £16.50 (which is roughly the same "A/h per £" as 4.5A/h cyclon packs discounted at CPC) Sealed Lead Acid is half as much but of course they're cr*p
... and a smart charger for £11.50
I should have done this yonks ago !
If I remember, I will report back to say whether these are the bargain they appear to be.
I also ordered 20 ultrabright red LEDs (3 quid) to make a new rear light and hence hopefully get over 2 hours' running time out of my new batteries. They're rated at 5Cd but over 25 degrees which is a bit narrow, but I plan to mount them on an arc.
My 5 LED Cateye is OK - so this should be "adequate"
I also ordered 20 ultrabright white LEDs as an experiment to see if I can live with even less wattage - would be fine for cycletracks.
See - I've been quite restrained - my original intention was to use about 50 LEDs in my tail light
I'm hoping to standardise car cigarette lighter connectors and hence be able to carry an emergency pack of AA alkalines...
Before I got pregnant and had to stop cycling (booooooo), I found wearing my old bandanna under my cycling helmet worked very well to keep my head and ears warm...but not too hot, as I hate having a sweaty head.
Mr LJo doesn't wear anything over his ears, but he does put cotton wool actually in them before cycling. Allows enough noise to filter through but stops him getting earache from cold wind, apparently.
Mr LJo doesn't wear anything over his ears, but he does put cotton wool actually in them before cycling. Allows enough noise to filter through but stops him getting earache from cold wind, apparently.
gentlegreen
I hummus, therefore I am ...
novelty lighting
Came across this earlier.
Totally bonkers and almost pointless - though if they could be made even cheaper (highly unlikely), perhaps they should be fitted to every new bike to make it almost impossible for idiot parents to allow their children out on the roads without lights ...
"Tumbling magnet generator" - Michael Faraday would have loved it :-
http://www.freelights.co.uk/
Think of it as a cycling computer pickup coil capable of powering your lights !
I'm tempted to buy the kit version (£6.50 including postage) just because it's so ingenious.
Important edit :- this product is a mildly interesting curiosity but don't waste your money folks !
Came across this earlier.
Totally bonkers and almost pointless - though if they could be made even cheaper (highly unlikely), perhaps they should be fitted to every new bike to make it almost impossible for idiot parents to allow their children out on the roads without lights ...
"Tumbling magnet generator" - Michael Faraday would have loved it :-
http://www.freelights.co.uk/
Think of it as a cycling computer pickup coil capable of powering your lights !
I'm tempted to buy the kit version (£6.50 including postage) just because it's so ingenious.
Important edit :- this product is a mildly interesting curiosity but don't waste your money folks !
gentlegreen
I hummus, therefore I am ...
lighting and footwear sagas continue
My tupperware 20 LED rear lamp is so far a little disappointing. Cateye's LD600 optics are very difficult to compete with - especially on flash - I'm tempted by the LD1000 ...
But I hate flashing LEDs - so my aim is to have a light that is as effective without flashing. I also hate relying on nickable lamps that don't come back on if you go over a bump.
I may go back to my plan to use an aftermarket high level brake light chopped up (come with optics)... I'll pop out to the local auto electrical shop later.
I am in the process of obtaining a 2D bulkhead luminaire - I always meant to make a light based on one of these lamps :-
A pity the tubes themselves don't come in red for maximum efficiency ... compact fluorescent - still the most effective use of 10 watts.
Unfortunately it pushes my current consumption back up to 2 amps and my lighting capability back down to an hour so I may have to order a second set of 3.3AH NiMHs.
---------------------
http://www.supersport.es/img/photos/detalle/32-137388.jpg
I've finally found a suitable shoe to replace my holey Shimanos.
I've just ordered some fancy Reebok trainers from a big size shoe place - £60 ... The "Ayrton Senna" suede/mustard specials aren't available in my size (un)fortunately :-( (13/14/48 ).... I may have to use the stiffeners from my Shimanos ...and / or perhaps have some "sacrificial" rubber glued-on.
Edited :-
Hopefully I've managed to cancel in time to save me the returns postage ...
'.... cos I've found another place selling a different, but similar retro Reebok trainer in my size for £14.99 plus post !
If they are suitable I will be ordering at least 2 more pairs
So annoying that I can't squeeze into the biggest size of Shimano's MO38s
http://www.nellborgs.se/images/796shm038.jpg
.
My tupperware 20 LED rear lamp is so far a little disappointing. Cateye's LD600 optics are very difficult to compete with - especially on flash - I'm tempted by the LD1000 ...
But I hate flashing LEDs - so my aim is to have a light that is as effective without flashing. I also hate relying on nickable lamps that don't come back on if you go over a bump.
I may go back to my plan to use an aftermarket high level brake light chopped up (come with optics)... I'll pop out to the local auto electrical shop later.
I am in the process of obtaining a 2D bulkhead luminaire - I always meant to make a light based on one of these lamps :-
A pity the tubes themselves don't come in red for maximum efficiency ... compact fluorescent - still the most effective use of 10 watts.
Unfortunately it pushes my current consumption back up to 2 amps and my lighting capability back down to an hour so I may have to order a second set of 3.3AH NiMHs.
---------------------
http://www.supersport.es/img/photos/detalle/32-137388.jpg
I've finally found a suitable shoe to replace my holey Shimanos.
I've just ordered some fancy Reebok trainers from a big size shoe place - £60 ... The "Ayrton Senna" suede/mustard specials aren't available in my size (un)fortunately :-( (13/14/48 ).... I may have to use the stiffeners from my Shimanos ...and / or perhaps have some "sacrificial" rubber glued-on.
Edited :-
Hopefully I've managed to cancel in time to save me the returns postage ...
'.... cos I've found another place selling a different, but similar retro Reebok trainer in my size for £14.99 plus post !
If they are suitable I will be ordering at least 2 more pairs
So annoying that I can't squeeze into the biggest size of Shimano's MO38s
http://www.nellborgs.se/images/796shm038.jpg
.
