Discussion in 'transport' started by ChrisFilter, Jan 27, 2015.
With Castelli you have to go a size bigger than you normally are.
Yeah, I heard that. I'm pretty much a size up anyway. I went with Castelli's sizing chart. My chest size is actually only one cm more than the sizing they give for the Small, and I ordered a Medium. It's a race-cut type fit so it's supposed to be pretty tight anyway - I'm just not used to it. I'm pretty sure now that it's ok; I'm just wishing that I'd ordered two sizes so that I could compare.
I'm really liking the fact that you can take the sleeves off. I'm sure that is going to come in very handy.
Edit: Just tried it sitting on the bike, and it felt good.
Wore it on the bike this morning. Seems fine.
Plus I achieved a new max speed, 34.3 mph.
What's the verdict on the Garmin Edge 1000?
Wiggle have just put it on sale at £275, down from £499.
General consensus in my cycling club seems to be to ditch Garmin and get a Wahoo Bolt instead...
I'm pissed off with Garmin atm. For some inexplicable reason they have removed the ability to search activities by course name on Garmin Connect, which renders it almost useless.
Having said that, from what I've seen, I prefer the way you can configure the screens on my Garmin compared with the Wahoo.
Just had to have my whole transmission changed. Chain snapped (it was booked in for a service next day, thought I might eke it out till then) just after I got off London Bridge. Front chainset, rear chainset, chain, bottom bracket all needed replaced. First time I've had to do several major things at once, but not too bad in the grand scheme of things.
Depends on what kind of cycling you do but I’ve got a Garmin Etrex 30x which costs around £170.
I’ve been using it for 2 years and it has never let me down.
It’s totally weather proof and very durable – I’ve dropped it multiple times and no damage was done – even when I dropped it in a puddle.
It runs off AA batteries which is a big advantage for me – as if it runs out I always carry a pair of spares – but with a good pair of rechargables you get about 12 hours – long enough for most rides.
The pre-installed maps are excellent – even including footpaths and bridleways – so I also use it for mountain biking and hiking….
The only downside is that it’s bit chunky so looks a little less elegant on the bike – but I don’t give a shit about that.
I’ve not used a more expensive Garmin like the edge but there’s no way I’d spend that kind of dollar when the Etrex does such a good job….
The battery life isn't as good as the 520 but if you want 4+ data fields (I normally have speed, distance, cadence and 30s power) and your eyes are fucked (mine are) then the screen is unbeatable. It also doesn't feel quite as rugged as the 520 but it's still my computer of choice.
Have you checked out eBay? You might find a bargain. I picked up an Edge 800 for £140 last year, and it does everything I need it to.
I've just stuck a longer stem on the road bike. It came with an 80, but I stuck on a 90, which felt better, and now I'm trying a 100. I haven't had a chance to give it a test ride yet though.
The Castelli jersey/jacket I bought is really great. I've been going out with just that and a long sleeved thermal base layer and I'm plenty warm enough, once I get going. Went out this morning and the temp was around five or six degrees according to my Garmin.
The leggings came out last night when I went to drop the car off & ride back at 9pm. That time of year already. Pretty soon they'll start throwing salt about and I'll have to consider reverting back to my old crap wheels, having already killed a pair of mavics commuting through winter.
Why would a bike company glue the cranks onto a bike? That's what it seems they've done with mine. The spindle bolts are impossible to undo, even applying a lot of force. There's no reason for them to be so tight. It seems like they've bonded them somehow. It's not essential for me to get them off now, but it seems like when I do need to get them off I'm going to have to go in search of a bike shop to do it......
What sort of crank is it and what do you mean by 'spindle bolts'?
If it's an old style square taper BB then crank bolts should be torqued to 45 nm (about 1% of bike shops will know how to do this properly) which is a lot of torque but not so much that you couldn't unloosen it with a 1/2" ratchet drive and diet based on chips.
If it's a Hollowtech II then the crank arm bolts should be about 12nm which isn't super tight.
It's a square tapered bb. And the bolts are so tight they will not undo at all. It wasn't a bike shop, I bought it direct from the bike company. I never had any issues getting them off my other bike.
Haven't got a longer lever, only allen keys, and nothing to heat it up with.
Find something you can slide over the Allen key to make it longer (some kind of metal tube). Arrange the pedal and the Allen key at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions (pedal to the right, Allen key to the left as you look at the drive side of the bike). Hold the back brake lever down with one hand and balance yourself against the wall or a table with the other. Stand with one foot on the pedal and the other on the tube/Allen key. Bounce.
Not sure I've got anything, but I'll give it a go.
something for you lot:
More here The stereo cycles of Sicily: Palermo teens pump up the velo – in pictures
I almost got wiped out by a bin lorry (private company, not council) on Wednesday night. Was parked on the advance box going north on moorgate, their lights turned red, our lights turned green, and then he decided to drive through (from a standing start, on a red light that's been red for several seconds), turning right onto south place. Me and another cyclist had to screech to a halt about a foot from the line the lorry was taking, and the charming passenger told me to fuck off through the window when I shouted at the lorry. Phoned said company this morning, and they're taking it incredibly seriously, which is good.
Scary stuff. Good on you for following up - I always try to complain to the company about any infraction by a liveried van - figure it's one way to try to turn the tide.
I figure even if it's at the point of "Listen, bob, some dickhead cyclist phoned to complain about you this morning, can you not?" it's still better than having done nothing, and I feel like I've done Something, so all good. The supervisor sounded *well* pissed off about it when she phoned back.
I've stuck a pair of Continental Supersonic inner tubes on the road bike. They only weigh 55 grams each, so offer a substantial weight saving over what was in there before (over two and half times as light in fact). They're very, very thin, so you have to be careful installing them, and I've heard people have problems, but I'm very experienced changing tubes, so I know a few tricks, and I didn't have any problems. I bought a pair just to see what they were like, and to see if I had any problems. Now I'm thinking of getting an extra one to swap in for the standard one I keep in my saddle bag for emergencies, as they are so light and take up so little space.
I've discovered that if you cycle slowly behind a random jogger people (slowing cars included) look at the jogger to see if it's a famous athelete in training or something
It rains ALOT where I live now and my poor bike is suffering from outside all day while I'm at work. Looked at the chain this morning and it was completely orange with rust, although it seems to be surface rust more than anything too serious (at the moment) as the bike still runs fairly well.
Can anyone advise me how best to prevent/deal with this rust before it gets too bad? What are the best products to use? I currently just use Finish Line Cross Country wet lube and try and clean the chain every now and again (although probably not regularly enough)
Should I get a plastic cover for my bike when it's raining?
GT85 is what you need as well as the lube. GT85 is similar to WD40, a different formulation but does the same job - removes rust, clears water and leaves a protective layer to prevent future rust. Spray it over your chain and rub off, you'll find lots of rust/dirt coming out from the spray. Make sure you do not get any on your brake pads/blocks, especially if you have disc brakes. Then lube your chain afterwards, wiping away the excess oil as usual. Use GT85 whenever you oil the chain.
Yes, get a cover for your bike for when it's stored at home, this will help a lot.
Thanks. Will get some GT85.
My bike's inside when it's at home - it's just the 8 or so hours during the day when I'm at work.
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