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Rust removal advice

maybe try soaking them in a couple of pints of water with a couple of teaspoons of bicarb in. i reckon after 5 minutes, they'll be as good as new.
 
yeah, sorry, warm water sheo. five minutes in that, combined with a bit of bicarb, will easily and quickly remove what the ravages of time and nature have done over a period of years.
 
yeah, sorry, warm water sheo. five minutes in that, combined with a bit of bicarb, will easily and quickly remove what the ravages of time and nature have done over a period of years.


the other thing you could do is warm water with nothing in it soaking for about 25 minutes then plunge the hooks into cold water for another 25 minutes followed by another dip in warm - and this is the important bit - salty water for an hour !

Should solve all your problems :D
 
the other thing you could do is warm water with nothing in it soaking for about 25 minutes then plunge the hooks into cold water for another 25 minutes followed by another dip in warm - and this is the important bit - salty water for an hour !

Should solve all your problems :D

And the current for an electrolytic reaction :rolleyes: Jesus, can't get the staff...
 
This isn't going quite to plan so far! :D



I was hoping someone would just pop up and say 'Oh yes! A couple of teaspoons of bicarb in a couple of pints of water, soaked for 5 minutes and they'll be good as new. :) '..... :mad: :p :D

reminds me of the water, toilet, poo and bath thread.

((sheo's homelife))
 
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to be continued .....
 
Is this a live experiment gentlegreen!!! :cool: :D


I'm off down to Sainsburys in half an hour as it goes....so if you could get to the ending quickly, I can decide whether it's worth forking out for some Cillit Bang or not. :p :cool:
 
yeah, sorry, warm water sheo. five minutes in that, combined with a bit of bicarb, will easily and quickly remove what the ravages of time and nature have done over a period of years.



sounds like it might be worth trying it on yourself as well, sheo. :cool:
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I'm off down to Sainsburys in half an hour as it goes....so if you could get to the ending quickly, I can decide whether it's worth forking out for some Cillit Bang or not. :p :cool:


A tin of bloody hammerite is only £5, which is only a bit more than that nasty chemical cillit shite :p:rolleyes::mad:

AND IT WORKS!!!!!!!
 
I've got that allen key sitting in concentrated phosphoric acid (horticultural grade) at the moment to see what happens.
 
:)

I just found this - looks like coke might be worth a try. - hence my phosphoric acid experiment. (It descales my loo waaay better than Cillit).

Removing Rust

When iron or steel starts to rust, it will puff up and expose clean metal to the open air, allowing rust to continue to the depths of the metal. If your favorite possession is already rusting and you want to clean it or at least stop the rusting, you have a few alternatives. There are a few products on the market which fall into the category of organic rust converters. These products contain acid to convert rust to black oxide and polymers which bond to rust. Instructions say to remove all loose rust, paint on the product, and let it dry. I've used one of these products and it did work. However, the resulting surface is black and rough. Also, the converted rust is not durable, so this may not be the right treatment for tools or stock. Some trade names for these products are: POR-15, Glean Tech Rust Killer, and RustX.
Another rust treatment is to remove loose rust and coat the metal with a product like WD-40. This fills pores and rust with a noncorrosive substance and prevents additional rusting. Often, this is sufficient to slow the progress of rust and leave the tool protected for future storage.
There are also techniques which remove rust. The most crude is sand blasting or bead blasting. This is standard practice in auto body repair shops. Sand blast will remove some good metal and will work-harden the surface, so glass bead blasting is used for more delicate parts. Immediately after any blasting, metal is clean and exposed, so it is essential that some form of rust proofing goes next. In auto body work, this is often an acid metal wash (see below) followed by self etching primer, but could also be a coating of a product like Boeshield T9.
Sand paper and steel wool will also remove rust, but they don't get into tiny crevices. Rubber abrasive sanding blocks like those made by Cratex are good at removing a thin coat of rust and can also remove rust from minute pores in the metal.
Another technique for removing rust is etching with Phosphoric Acid. Phosphoric Acid has a unique property of dissolving iron oxide quickly while etching iron very slowly. This means that you can leave metal in Phosphoric Acid for much longer than necessary with very little damage. The acid will attack bare metal slowly and will start the process of hydrogen embrittlement, so use the minimum etch time that removes all rust.
Another unique advantage of Phosphoric Acid is that it leaves a fine coating of iron phosphate behind. Iron phosphate prevents rust. However, the iron phosphate coating is not very thick and not durable. Some additional protection is still required.
Phosphoric Acid etch will leave a hard, bright metal finish. This is because it will etch the surface slightly, exposing new, bare metal. Often this is desirable. It leaves an attractive surface and a surface ready to paint. A common product which contains Phosphoric Acid is Naval Jelly. The soft drink Coca-Cola contains Phosphoric Acid, so Coke will etch rust. But Coke also contains carbonic acid and other nasty things. You're going to drink that stuff?

http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/rust/rust.html
 
The phosphoric acid seems to have made a slight difference, (you can see that it was just the end I put in) but I should have tracked down something made of cast iron ... the issue being "will it leave marks on my posh coat" ...

To be honest, another look suggests the cillit made a difference too. :o


phosphoriconehour.JPG
 
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