Nepal

[Xanadu]

At night at altitude you'll be huddled round a stove in a teahouse with a mug of hot chocolate with a slug of Khukri rum in it so the cold won't be too much of a problem then, either. A woolly jumper and a normal jacket were enough for me. I didn't even have a waterproof one - when it rained I dived into a teahouse and drank loads of chai until it passed.

God, it's making me pine for the hills, writing this. You'll have a brilliant time, I guarentee it.

That's enough to make me want to go too

 

[felixthecat]

The daughter is off to nepal for 6 weeks next year - all of this info is brilliant and I've passed it onto her.

Cheers everyone, in partic NVP (you're a star)

 

[fela fan]

A sudden, important, question!

Do the lodges along the way on the treks have any kind of electricity? I have just two batteries for my camera, normally plenty, but if there's no electricity, i'll not be able to charge my batteries.

It now begins to seem a stupid question as i type, but i'll leave it in. Just want to be sure i don't need to get a new, costly, battery.

 

[Poi E]

A sudden, important, question!

Do the lodges along the way on the treks have any kind of electricity? I have just two batteries for my camera, normally plenty, but if there's no electricity, i'll not be able to charge my batteries.

It now begins to seem a stupid question as i type, but i'll leave it in. Just want to be sure i don't need to get a new, costly, battery.

I stayed in one out of umpteen that had electricity from a diesel generator. This was 10 years ago, but assume that they do not. And that is one of the beautiful things.

And buy a decent portable water filter, too.

 

[fela fan]

I stayed in one out of umpteen that had electricity from a diesel generator. This was 10 years ago, but assume that they do not. And that is one of the beautiful things.

And buy a decent portable water filter, too.

Well, yes it is a beautiful thing, and i don't mind at all if they don't have it. But if i know either way, then i can prepare myself for my photos. Two batteries are unlikely to last a week or so.

 

[Poi E]

Well, yes it is a beautiful thing, and i don't mind at all if they don't have it. But if i know either way, then i can prepare myself for my photos. Two batteries are unlikely to last a week or so.

Once you have seen one majestic snow capped peak with the burnt sienna light of the afternoon sun accompanied by the gentle ringing of yak bells and the heady aroma of charas you've seen them all.

 

[jontz01]

Once you have seen one majestic snow capped peak with the burnt sienna light of the afternoon sun accompanied by the gentle ringing of yak bells and the heady aroma of charas you've seen them all.

You've mentioned the Charas a couple of times now poi, I've always wondered about the legality/safety (you hear all the scare stories etc). Nepal's somewhere I'd love to go, I need to get away for a bit and clear my head.... What's the deal with having a smoke over there? Is it reasonably friendly/safe for someone who's aware of thier surroundings/has got head screwed on?

Obviously following common sense, only get tiny little bits, be discreet etc???

 

[Poi E]

You've mentioned the Charas a couple of times now poi, I've always wondered about the legality/safety (you hear all the scare stories etc). Nepal's somewhere I'd love to go, I need to get away for a bit and clear my head.... What's the deal with having a smoke over there? Is it reasonably friendly/safe for someone who's aware of thier surroundings/has got head screwed on?

Obviously following common sense, only get tiny little bits, be discreet etc???

heh he whoops. But is is sooo nice!

Usual story, cops would jump a chance to make a buck out of you. Buy off another tourist has mostly been my approach. Up in the mountains I bought a load from some Sherpa guys. Gave most of it away, cheap as chips.

I got hassled by some fucking German hippy for having my walkman on and puffing away up Everest. But that's hippies, always ruining the fun.

 

[Riklet]

Ok i just wrote a really big post and then opened one of the pictures in the thread and lost it all so yes, i'll write it all out again when i'm less pissed off.

Get that Trailblazer guide though! You're going to have a wicked time...

 

[fela fan]

Hope you find the motivation to write it again. It can be a right bummer losing a long post!

 

[Nikkormat]

Just bought the Trailblazer guide. Looks excellent.

Can someone reassure me please? I was planning to take US$300 and £3-400 in Nepali Rupees (for five weeks), but my bank say they can't get hold of Nepali Rupees. Will I be able to withdraw them from an ATM in Kathmandu using my Visa debit card when i get there?

 

[Voley]

A sudden, important, question!

Do the lodges along the way on the treks have any kind of electricity? I have just two batteries for my camera, normally plenty, but if there's no electricity, i'll not be able to charge my batteries.

It now begins to seem a stupid question as i type, but i'll leave it in. Just want to be sure i don't need to get a new, costly, battery.

Yes, they've nearly all got 'leccy these days. A lot of it's solar - ACAP give lodgeowners grants to install solar panels - it's one of the things your entrance fee goes towards.

You've mentioned the Charas a couple of times now poi, I've always wondered about the legality/safety (you hear all the scare stories etc). Nepal's somewhere I'd love to go, I need to get away for a bit and clear my head.... What's the deal with having a smoke over there? Is it reasonably friendly/safe for someone who's aware of thier surroundings/has got head screwed on?

Obviously following common sense, only get tiny little bits, be discreet etc???

Keep your head screwed on and you'll have no problem. It's some of the best in the world, too.

Just bought the Trailblazer guide. Looks excellent.

Can someone reassure me please? I was planning to take US$300 and £3-400 in Nepali Rupees (for five weeks), but my bank say they can't get hold of Nepali Rupees. Will I be able to withdraw them from an ATM in Kathmandu using my Visa debit card when i get there?

Yes, no problem. I don't know if you'll be able to withdraw all of that from one ATM in a day, though - that's a lot of roops - but you should be OK withdrawing some in Kathmandhu and then withdrawing the rest when you get to Pokhara. If you've reached your limit at the ATM, a lot of the money changers will do an advance on a credit/debit card, too. Changing dollars is easy in both places, too - again, the moneychangers will help you out. I've even changed dollars on the trail, too, albeit at a pretty crappy rate. Most lodgeowners do this - or know someone that does - as a little sideline if you ask. Nepal is very much like India in this respect - if you've got a problem, people are more than happy to help you out for a small commission.

 

[Nikkormat]

Cheers NVP. You've been a great help.

Just over one week to go

 

[Voley]

You'll have a great time, mate. Say hello to Macchapucchre for me, won't you?

 

[Nikkormat]

Will do

 

[Nikkormat]

Now in Pokhara, which is lovely. Thamel is a bit of a shit-hole. We set off on the Annapurna Circuit but my mate got AMS at about 2800 metres, and despite rest and diamox it wouldn't go away, so we've come to Pokhara and are setting off on the Sanctuary/Base Camp trek tomorrow. Taking it slowly this time. Will probably have a wander off the Sanctuary route too.

Food good. Spent about Rs1200 per day each on the Circuit, prices getting higher as you go up - goods have to be man-packed or go up by mule. They are building a road, it's got as far as Jagat now and things look pretty grim - a few guides have told us that they don't think it'll be half as nice in a year or two.

Strange country. Mixed feelings.

 

[fela fan]

Nikkormat, hope you did the trek in the end.

I did the 'easy' one, the ghorepani gandruk circuit. Spent six days on it, but i could go back on my tod and spend three weeks doing the exact same trek. The scenery is awesome, and for me the whole trek was an adventure of a lifetime. Walking through those forests filled the soul with delight. Time stood still for while trekking. The sheer scale of the mountains and valleys and so on was breathtaking.

We were most unlucky however in pokhara. Over a weeks spent there and not one clear day. So we never saw the mountains from pokhara, and we didn't get to sarangkot which was sad.

However, i will return, probably october time when i think i can expect clear days. That trekking is just out of this world, and i would also love to get to the ABC.

The massive minus point for me in nepal was the traveling between two places. Driving back from pokhara to kathmandu was a living nightmare. Death was faced several times.

But the nightmare was broken in half by stopping overnight in bandipur. Again we missed the mountain views, but on a clear day then bandipur will be stunning. It was a magical 'town' anyway, and again i could spend days there.

Obviously one trip to nepal is pathetically inadequate!

I enjoyed thamel. The seemless integration of all vehicles and persons with nary a bump was amazing.

Buying and smoking dope was very problem-free too, and i always rate a country as civilised when you can go into a cafe or restaurant garden and skin up.

Pokhara, even without seeing the mountains, is a gorgeous place. Nirvana guest house at the furthermost point at the northern end had magical views across the lakes that five-star tourists pay huge money for. My mate was staying there for 100 rupees a night...

I will be back as soon as time and money get me there. I want those pokhara views of the range...

 

[Nikkormat]

Home.

Had a great time. Ended up going to the Annapurna Sanctuary. Again, my mate got AMS at 2500 metres, so I left her at Dovan and went up alone. Truly beautiful. We also walked to Ghorepani/Poon Hill and then up to Tatopani.

Much as I enjoyed it, I can't see myself going back. Too many other places to explore.