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Lisbon

Discussion in 'travel and world' started by Proper Tidy, Sep 27, 2010.

  1. FridgeMagnet

    FridgeMagnet Administrator

    I went for five nights in the end. I wish I'd spent more time in Sintra—there's a lot there, and even if you just do a day trip from Lisbon my tip is to reserve the whole afternoon for Pena, because as well as the palace the park around it is huge.

    The transport is good and very cheap, so I also wish I'd planned a few longer trips, but five nights isn't much for that if you also want to see the city properly. I could have spent two weeks but I'd have wanted to move around rather than just being based in Lisbon.
     
    Pickman's model and bimble like this.
  2. hash tag

    hash tag Pedicabo omnes

    I have a friend who goes there regularly and has recomened it to me. When I am well enough to travel and can get some pennies together I plan to visit.
    Rick Stein also visted recently and is worth a watch BBC Two - Rick Stein's Long Weekends, Lisbon
     
  3. bimble

    bimble uber-hippy twonk peanut

    That website shows a whole bunch of different restaurants - was there one that was the special memory one? (I'm really excited, going to Lisbon tomorrow, first time).:) Looks like it going to rain a lot so hoping to do loads of eating.
     
    Riklet likes this.
  4. 8den

    8den No I'm pretty sure that was 8ball...

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  5. bimble

    bimble uber-hippy twonk peanut

    Went on Sunday and they were doing their famous help yourself spread, was a joy - thanks for the recommendation. Also one of the few times the annoyingly veggie boyfriend got to eat something that wasn't a cake or a salad. :)
     
    Riklet likes this.
  6. Stanley Edwards

    Stanley Edwards Food please.

    I am really beginning to love this city. Spent about Three weeks here in total so far, and plan to be here for most weekends over the next Six months to a year (possibly much longer). Finding more time to explore non-tourist Lisbon. The modern suburbs aren't really worth noting, but lesser known barrios not to far from the centre are great. I will post some insider pics and local knowledge as I slowly get my head around the very strange pronunciation of what should be a simple language for a Spanish speaker to pick-up.

    Within the tourist centre Cais Sodre is the place to start a Friday evening presently. Close by Sau Paulo is my favourite central haunt. It is already gradually being gentrified, but there is still plenty of room for the likes of me. A couple of art bars remain fairly genuine. There are banners on many empty buildings encouraging squatters - a sure sign that prospectors are moving in. The interior design shops are already opening. This is the area between Barrio Alto and the bay/river at the bottom of the hill. Keep going west for a more local, tourist free vibe.

    Be warned about the street sellers. They sell overpriced shit, and they can be very aggressive. Give a very clear 'no' Three times if you have to. If you express the slightest bit of interest you will quickly find yourself surrounded by half a dozen intimidating guys who will not let you leave until you have coughed up €40 at least. That usually means €40 for a Gramme of shit quality hash which should cost no more than €7 for very good quality. If you want to buy, ask discretely at likely bars before you have drunk too much.

    Almost everyone speaks English, and are happy to use it.

    Miradouro de Santa Catarina has a nice, relaxed party vibe with great views across the bay for a place to just chill in the evening with a few take-outs. From there, walk up the hill, away from the river, then down the hill still heading west to find something a little more authentic and more affordable for nightlife and interesting bars, independent shops, traditional stuff etc.

    A fellow U75 poster was here a week, or so ago, but I doubt very much if he remembers anything. Especially not the Two nights in a row police told me to get him fucking well away, or we both spend a night in the cells :D I'm too old for that shit, my advice will come from someone who much prefers a peaceful, but fun night enjoying good food, drink and a small toke in a good atmosphere. Barrio Alto is my idea of hell. All stupidly drunk ERASMUS students - blood, puke and tears to wade through after 1AM.
     
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  7. Pickman's model

    Pickman's model Starry Wisdom

    has no one ever pointed out to you the role of artists in the gentrification process?
     
  8. Stanley Edwards

    Stanley Edwards Food please.

    I always get there far too late to cash in. Either that, or never realise I am actually already there. When I was last in Granada I noticed the minimarket that was always good for out of hours beer had become an estate agents office. It is only now I have left Spain I understand I was actually pushed out.

    There is no role to choose in life as an artist other than your own fucked-up route.

    Anyways...

    Back to Lisbon. A big thumbs up for Hostal Lisbon Calling if you are on a backpackers type budget and want a relatively quiet place to stay. Very nice. I can only fault the place for a lack of outdoors space. A problem if you are a smoker, or toker. Tiny balcony only, but fabulous kitchen if you like to cook as I do. Excellent location.

    Tram 28 is known as 'the golden tram' because it goes through almost all of the old town. A nice casual tour for the very reasonable price of €1.45 for a single trip ticket. That is €1.45 for your trip, plus 50 Cents for your reusable/rechargeable card. Public transport here is excellent. A day ticket will cover you for Metro, buses, trams and even some ferries unlimited for 24 hours. It is a fantastic way to spend your day and explore all corners of the city. Highly recommended.
     
  9. Stanley Edwards

    Stanley Edwards Food please.

    Going to have to mention the TimeOut market here.

    Time Out Market Lisboa

    Took a good look around this evening. I was mightily impressed by the free bathrooms and will undoubtedly be making good use of them in the future. Other than that; I hate the place. I love traditional market halls in Portugal. Every town, or city has one. They are about the most important building within any community. So, turning such places into branded nightmares is not for me.

    However, I do understand why tourists love the McDonalds treatment. All English speaking environment in the middle of Lisbon punching belly blows to the traditional cafes and bars. I actually felt the threat of terrorism in that place. Perhaps I won't bother with the bogs after all. It is only 50 Cents for a comfortable crap in Cais Sodre station across the road.
     
  10. Stanley Edwards

    Stanley Edwards Food please.

    I met someone this morning who I have met before in Santiago, Granada, Toulouse and now Lisbon. She said something I hadn't really considered. She said "it is becoming the new Barcelona". I sort of understand what she meant, but thankfully, it isn't IMO. Sure, it is commercial as fuck. People come here to get wasted. Architecturally, it is not far off Barcelona. But, it is still real.

    Anyone can approach a bar/venue in the coolest parts of town with an idea, and the owners will listen. Money will not be mentioned. You can still make things happen here very easily. Whilst Barcelona and Berlin have died from stifling of Mummy and Daddy's credit cards, Lisbon is still happening for ordinary people like us. The mega money hasn't come here yet. There are still Thousands of empty buildings in the centre. There are very few thieves. Loads of pseudo dealers selling shit, but it is incredibly safe. Only Vienna compares as a European capital IME. Vienna may react (in opposition) well to the new government, or it may go stifled also.

    Berlin had the coming down of the wall. Barcelona had the Olympics and Freddie Mercury. My feeling is that people should get to this city before Portugal win the World Cup, and do to Lisbon what the Brazilian football team did to Rio many years ago.

    It is conference city. Hotel prices can triple overnight - book well in advance. Beds are not always cheap, but fucking hell: a fantastic traditional meal for just €6.50 in the city centre! Seriously good food. Caneca (Pint) from just €2.00. It has architecture, museums and galleries galore (I don't do them unless I am really bored and feeling rich), fantastic public transport, extra friendly locals, tolerant police, rich and varied bar scene, a beach, or Two, great climate... why hasn't it exploded before? It hasn't exploded, because there is no, or very little new money here.

    Despite the very apparent commercial sell, sell, sell, it is actually still very real. The shit of everyday Lisbon is always close enough if you need a come down.

    The story of a day in the life of a Tuk Tuk driver will come here another time. It is an interesting insight into touristic Lisbon. If you have a little understanding of what makes a city like this work day to day, it adds value to your own experience.

    Pissing it down ATM. My first real Portuguese rain since June. Hopefully, that is an end to this years forest fires.
     
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  11. Stanley Edwards

    Stanley Edwards Food please.

    Mundo Fantastico da Sardinha :D This is brilliant. There is a little on my blog.

    I am digging deep, little by little into 'Portugal Secreto'. I shall explain more another time. I'll try to get a photograph tomorrow to go with the Tuk Tuk driver story, because this is also quite brilliant. If you ever come here and take a Tuk Tuk ride, tell them to shut up with the tourist spiel they have told a Thousand times, and ask them to tell you all about their life, and their Lisbon. I'll come back with the insight I received tomorrow.

    But, do not dismiss Mundo Fantastico da Sardinha. It is worth every last Centimo.
     
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  12. blossie33

    blossie33 trailer trash

  13. Stanley Edwards

    Stanley Edwards Food please.

    I'll be back in Lisbon Monday.

    I am on a weekend break in Nazare. There are many suggested day trips, or overnights from Lisbon. Most go to Sintra. I'm telling you a trip to Nazare is worth much more. €12, and a 1 Hour 30 Minute bus ride.

    Nazare is famous for the wave - the highest wave ever surfed in the World.

    wave.jpg

    Other than that, there isn't much here. There is a fenicular up the hill to view the wave and see the impressive church. There are fabulous wilderness beaches a short walk away. It has a certain charm, and a very spiritual feel. I love the place. Feel very content and at peace here, but I wouldn't expect everyone to get what I get from the place. It is all about a very chilled, Atlantic atmosphere. Everything is just very easy, gentle and always OK.

    This would be my first recommendation for a day trip, or overnight stay from Lisbon. My plan is to live here for at least 6 months. I like it that much.

    Back to Lisbon proper next week.
     
  14. Stanley Edwards

    Stanley Edwards Food please.

    End of season. Sunday night hotel fucking bargains.

    One last night in Nazare before I go back to Lisbon to do some more proper work. Nazare, I am growing to love more by the day.

    Hotel Oceano. €30 for an exceptionally luxurious room with full buffet breakfast. Slate floors. White linen. Black tiled bathroom. Bright white towels everywhere. Flatscreen, WiFi, small balcony - the whole fucking luxury for negotiated down to just €30! May take photos later. I am in a bar right now. Oh! You get 10% discount in the hotel resto/bar also, but I've come to drink my favourite beer.

    Hotel Oceano. On the sea front. Central. Views. Everything. Friendly staff (this is the norm in Portugal).

    This was after I was invited for a meal again :) This is Portugal coast. Your best option is always going to be seafood. The families fish the seas, the families cook the food.

    I had sea bream. My friends had fish stew, and wild salmon. Fabulous atmosphere, great service, like really great service - I dropped a very generous tip, because I paid for nothing else. Extras - a small beer, a large beer, olives, bread, king prawns, grapa, almond liquor, coffee.

    €55 for all Three of us all inclusive! Delicious. Cooked to perfection and delivered in style. Brilliant.

    Beautiful sunset over the ocean followed by equally beautiful crescent moon. Fabulous weather and those high drama waves and breakers. This is heaven people. Total fucking heaven.

    :)
     
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