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Kraków - What the guide books don't tell you?

CyberRose

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Hi, I'm off to Kraków for 5 nights at the start of October and wondered if I could pick the brains of people who have been before. I've been to Poland once, to Wrocław which is supposed to be a smaller version of Kraków. I have two guide books, a Lonely Planet guide to Poland, and a Thomas Cook guide to Kraków (which seems to be geared to the more up market tourist, which I ain't!)

Anyway, I pretty much know all the obvious touristy things to see - Auschwitz, Salt Mines, Jewish Quarter, Wawel hill, day trip to Zakopane maybe - but I want to know stuff to do that won't be in the guide books and travel websites. What quirky things did you discover when you visited? Cool bars or clubs? Other than Zakopane, are there any other decent day trips in the region? (Also, is October too early for there to be any snow in Zakopane?)

Quirky, unknown, strange, weird, suggestions will be welcomed! Basically, anything that perhaps won't be in the guide book but something that you only found out about, and really enjoyed, when you explored the city...
 
I love Krakow, its just the most beautiful city.

Dont know about bars and clubs, its a few years since I was last year and apparently its become a lot touristy more like Prague in recent years.

If your into art, architecture and history there is a lot to see; it was the medieval capital of Poland and unlike Warsaw came out WW2 relatively intact. Most of this stuff is in the guidebooks though so Im not sure I can add anything off the beaten track!
 
I never saw the point of going to Auschwitz. There's not much to see and the tourism industry is a bit icky IMO.

There are loads of cool bars, but they change all the time so any of my knowledge is probably out of date. Just wander about and go in the places that look cool. That said there is a very cool jazz bar that's worth a look if you stumble across it.
 
Quirky, unknown, strange, weird, suggestions will be welcomed!

Every hour a trumpeter sounds the hour from the tower of the Mariacki Church in the Town Square he breaks off halfway through and this commemorates the trumpeter who warned of the attack off the mongols in the 13th Century who kept sounding the alarm until shot down with arrows.

Visit the Collegium Maium (the oldest University in Central Europe) where you can see the 'Alchemists Room' which they claim was the room fo the original Dr Faustus.

The Wawel Cathedral has the skeleton of a dragon! although modern scientists claim its the mixed bones of a mammoth, whale and other bits and pieces!
 
You could have a trip out to Nowa Huta for a look at some proper communist architecture.

placNH.jpg


Definitely don't miss the salt mine, it's fucking amazing.
 
Fruitloop said:
I never saw the point of going to Auschwitz. There's not much to see and the tourism industry is a bit icky IMO.

I completely disagree.

I had the same reservations initially, but my bf's family were Jewish and had relatives who died there so he wanted to go.

We paid for a coach tour (does sound icky) but the woman who was the guide was very knowledgable and told us stuff we might not have known otherwise. The displays of hair, spectacles, and suitcases were just stunning. I'm glad i went, even if there was nothing pleasant at all about it.

There were some fairly crass tourists about though :rolleyes:
 
I found Auschwitz fascinating and terribly moving when I visited.

There were some fairly crass tourists about though

Everyone was very solemn when I was there, lots of young Germans in tears.
 
Belushi said:
Every hour a trumpeter sounds the hour from the tower of the Mariacki Church in the Town Square he breaks off halfway through and this commemorates the trumpeter who warned of the attack off the mongols in the 13th Century who kept sounding the alarm until shot down with arrows.

He's brill! Try playing guess which wondow he is going to pop out of next.
 
Yea Auschwitz is definately somewhere I want to go. I'm learning Polish and a few people in the class and the teacher had been to Auschwitz and they all said everyone should visit it once during their lives just to remind you what evil some people are capable of...
 
Belushi said:
I found Auschwitz fascinating and terribly moving when I visited.

Everyone was very solemn when I was there, lots of young Germans in tears.

Me too. It changes your outlook on life and as horrible as you think it was now the scale of the whole thing can only be comprehended when there.

Not everyone was solemn though. A group of americans took smiley photos under the Work is Freedom sign. I don't think they quite got it.
 
Did I PM you before about the Peasant's Kitchen Cyber rose?

Thats worth a look. Historical based cuisine with a free cup of pork lard for dipping.

I think you are too early for the christams market unfortunately.
Can't think of anything else we did that hasn't already been mentioned.
 
Chopskie Jadlo? It was great when I first went but I heard they are a chain now, so wasn't sure whether it was still as good. Probably worth a look anyway!
 
Marius said:
A group of americans took smiley photos under the Work is Freedom sign. I don't think they quite got it.

:(

yep, the very same crass tourists i was on about. wonders never cease :rolleyes:
 
If you're interested in art go to the Czarytorski Palace to see Da Vinci's 'Lady with an Ermin' it's a stunning piece of work.

Also, if your at the Mariacki Church at Noon they open up the great altarpiece, an amazing piece of medieval woodcarving.

The archeological museum is worth a visit if thats your cup of tea - they have he only known statue of a slavic god (I'm guessing Im the only person excited by this) f its warm they've got lovely gardens.
 
baldrick said:
:(

yep, the very same crass tourists i was on about. wonders never cease :rolleyes:

I think they are the minority though rather than he majority.
Most people know its not a theme park complete with gas chamber ghost train and medical experiments rollercoaster.
 
Marius said:
Did I PM you before about the Peasant's Kitchen Cyber rose?
Yep that's on my list of places to go! :)

About what people are saying about crass tourists, what do you mean? Because they take photos in Auschwitz? If I go I'll prob take photos as I take photos of absolutely everything when I go places! Is that not "done" there?
 
Belushi said:
they have he only known statue of a slavic god (I'm guessing Im the only person excited by this) f its warm they've got lovely gardens.
Well I went to an archeological museum in Wrocław which to be honest was pants, but I do quite fancy the sound of seeing the only Slavic god in capitivity, and I suppose the museums in Kraków should be a lot better than those in Wrocław
 
CyberRose said:
About what people are saying about crass tourists, what do you mean? Because they take photos in Auschwitz?

it's not the photos particularly, but the sight of a 40-year-old man with a video camera grinning at his kid posing in front of those famous gates was a bit of a "wtf!" moment. especially when you see the photos of the same gates in the museum with rather less healthy looking people in them.

it's not really a family photo opportunity, unless you're really dense, imo.
 
CyberRose said:
Yep that's on my list of places to go! :)

About what people are saying about crass tourists, what do you mean? Because they take photos in Auschwitz? If I go I'll prob take photos as I take photos of absolutely everything when I go places! Is that not "done" there?

I found there to be crass people about when i was there... I dont mean the taking of photographs, but there were people laughing and talking loudly and generally dicking around and showing no respect whatsoever. It was quite easy to get away from them, to be fair... and yes, definately worth a visit!

I went to Krakow with my ex and his sister who are polish so they took me to some pretty cool places, but I was driven around mostly so cant really remember where these clubs etc were/names. :(

The highlight of the trip though was going to our friends wedding... total catholic ceremony, couldnt understand a word the priest was going on about... Afterwards, got driven to the reception in a hall in the middle of an allotment (:D ) where you were given a shot glass on entry and everytime someone made a speech (and there were copious,) you would get the shotglass filled with vodka. :D

It was messy!
 
Um.

So there I was , walking around Auschwitz , away from the Hoi Polloi , right up in the trees past the chambers, my head in the clouds.

I see what Looks like a birch twig at my feet - I pick it up .

I then realise its a big bone fragment.

I look more carefully and se that I am surrounded by white Bone fragments, everywhere I step.I cant walk without treading on bones

shock

Grown man bursts into tears:(
 
CyberRose said:
Yep that's on my list of places to go! :)

About what people are saying about crass tourists, what do you mean? Because they take photos in Auschwitz? If I go I'll prob take photos as I take photos of absolutely everything when I go places! Is that not "done" there?

I took photos. I didn't get my mates to grin happily in them though.
Ooh goody we're where loads of people snuffed it CHEESE!

Somber was more of an appropriate theme.
 
Marius said:
I took photos. I didn't get my mates to grin happily in them though.
Ooh goody we're where loads of people snuffed it CHEESE!

Somber was more of an appropriate theme.
Ah ok I get ya!
 
Belushi said:
If you're interested in art go to the Czarytorski Palace to see Da Vinci's 'Lady with an Ermin' it's a stunning piece of work.

Also, if your at the Mariacki Church at Noon they open up the great altarpiece, an amazing piece of medieval woodcarving.

The archeological museum is worth a visit if thats your cup of tea - they have he only known statue of a slavic god (I'm guessing Im the only person excited by this) f its warm they've got lovely gardens.

Absolutely agree with those two - fantastic.

Also the National Museum has some very interesting 20th Century Art going from early 20th Century naturalism to modern Performance Art (via video) and sculpture. Not for all but worth seeing.

The Ethnographical Museum, situated in the Old Town Hall of Kazimierz, is an interesting look at traditional life, folklore and customs in Poland especially during the 19th and 20th Century.

Remu'h Cemetery in Kazamierz is also a peaceful place for reflection

As for bars and reataurants I'd recommend

Wodka - Mikolajska 5, a 2 minute walk from St. Mary's Church, where you can sample some flavoured vodka

U Kacpra - Ul. Slakowska 2, great cellar bar, good atmosphere, very busy, very close to the main square AC/DC and other rock on the PA open till 2.00 am

Balaton - ul Grodzka 37, for cheap and delicious Hungarian/Polish cuisine.

Enjoy Krakow - we have been 5 times are are currently planning our sixth trip!
 
Fruitloop said:
Definitely don't miss the salt mine, it's fucking amazing.

I didn't particularly enjoy the salt mine. Found it pretty boring. The tour guide was pretty funny though.

Fruitloop said:
Chopskie Jadlo? It was great when I first went but I heard they are a chain now, so wasn't sure whether it was still as good. Probably worth a look anyway!

I think I went into one of these. Food was reasonable.
 
Xanadu said:
I didn't particularly enjoy the salt mine. Found it pretty boring. The tour guide was pretty funny though.

I think I went into one of these. Food was reasonable.

I didn't do the salt mine, the girls i was swith who did said it wasn't much cop but were laughing about some voiceover which had a dreadful plum in mouth english accent. They kept saying Raahritea all weekend instead of rarity.
 
Enjoy Krakow - we have been 5 times are are currently planning our sixth trip!

Have you been during the snow? I was there in January one year and it was absolutely magical (though bloody cold!)
 
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