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July photography thread

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@JC2 .. if you did some pre-focussing, & didn't snatch your captures so violently, your images would be considerably less fuzzy, less jarring on the eyes to view.

I think he likes them like that. I'm getting used to them now. I think the blurring is possibly part of what he's going for. I could be wrong though.
 


Holga and 80 Polaroid back. 06-expired type 88 Polaroid film. Everything from this pack is coming out really strong blue/greens and cream. That film was always very blue, but 3 years past its date it's even more so. I like.
 
@JC2 .. if you did some pre-focussing, & didn't snatch your captures so violently, your images would be considerably less fuzzy, less jarring on the eyes to view.

The photos that are fuzzy, are that way on purpose.

e.g. if you compare these photos, the 'blur' level is different in each, for a reason.

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tom : how do you get your clouds all nice and fluffy and streaky like that..
They're already like that.... but he probably increases the contrast in his pics plus a bit of dodging and burning... if using film a red filter can increase cloud contrast as well as darkening blue skies

Tom is a badman lensman, I'd love to have a print of some of his landscape pics 18" x 12" but I'm a firm believer that only your own work should be displayed in your yard...
 
Oh and, now that ive actually looked at the freakin' pictures - long exposure time means that the movement of the clouds causes blurring, adding to that soft fluffy loook
 
tom : how do you get your clouds all nice and fluffy and streaky like that..

Yep - Long exposures - those shots were at least 3 minute exposures. They were digital so no red filtering (but I often do on film) but I generally do have to make some slight curves adjustment to increase, selectively, the contrast in certain areas of the image because the filter I used the allow such long exposures in day light can leave the images a little flat otherwise. Generally avoid too much dodging and burnign in PS as it seems I am better at it in the darkroom than on a computer (I always just end up being too heavy handed).

Basically for these long epxosures the choice is go out at night (best option), or take on an overcast day using an ND filter....but a VERY thick one.
 
I like this shot though!
pah its shite (ive cropped & straightened it a bit since i first posted it 'cause i cant hold a camera straight). i hate it and lemme tell you why:

i'm crap at thinking of more than one thing at once. my radio flash triggers werent working so i had to detangle a load of sync cables to use instead. bare stress of detangling wires and then trippping over wires and putting wires in the wrong socket, then finally getting the correct exposure, completely erased any thought of framing and composition from my mind - i should have asked him to move to the left, but i just didnt see that he should have been perfectly positioned between the two upright bits on the background wall. plus that nasty shadow on the left due to the flash on the right being too low. and the colours are boring... dark green, black, dark brown? ugly.

need to work on my actual vision... you know, the bit thats important for photography. rather than just fucking around trying to make the lighting look good.

EDIT: oh and FFS!!! :mad: BARREL DISTORTION ON A 50MM PRIME EVEN WHEN THE EDGES ARE CROPPED BY THE 1.6x SENSOR EFFECTIVELY MAKING IT AN 80MM LENS :mad:
 
Yep - Long exposures - those shots were at least 3 minute exposures. They were digital so no red filtering (but I often do on film) but I generally do have to make some slight curves adjustment to increase, selectively, the contrast in certain areas of the image because the filter I used the allow such long exposures in day light can leave the images a little flat otherwise. Generally avoid too much dodging and burnign in PS as it seems I am better at it in the darkroom than on a computer (I always just end up being too heavy handed).

Basically for these long epxosures the choice is go out at night (best option), or take on an overcast day using an ND filter....but a VERY thick one.

Thanks Tom (and Herbs). I shall try this right now out my window. Seems pretty overcast :)
 
Thanks Tom (and Herbs). I shall try this right now out my window. Seems pretty overcast :)

Problem is if you're doing it during the day even if it's really dark you'll only get maximum 0.5-1 second exposure - which is not enough for cloud movement. Try it at night, on a tripod.
 
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