What does my style say about me?
Skinhead.
This...........
Jim Fergusons Fashion Notebook
SHIRTS:
Skinhead style is a lot more than Levis and Fred Perry...I'm sure if that's the way it was many a skinhead would get bored wearing this uniform everyday. Anyway...
In the beginning, any shirt that wasn't in fashion was acceptable. Old men's shirts, collared or not, were popular. Ben Sherman's originally had a low second button so the collar was very open, very comfortable. Lots of styles but no checks at the time.
Later Ben Sherman decided to move the second button up, almost in line with the collar point buttons. Bens checked shirts early on were very clumsy looking, until the smaller checked shirts became the rage with smooths in 71. Dark colored Bens came in style after the checks in the South but preceded them in the North.
The Fred Perry was an early skinhead statement and later came into style again in the Summer of 71.
BOOTS N SHOES:
Early on boots with steel caps were often purposely worn down to expose the metal. These caps were often polished or painted white. Some boots were bought with white toe caps.
Steel heels and nails were often used, and were good for making noise and sparks but rough on manuverability. Steel Caps were eventually named an offensive weapon and subsequently banned from football matches. Dr. Marten soon banished other styles.
The eight eyelet Doc Air Wear brown was the most popular, with laces drawn through the heel tag, trouser worn high enough to reveal this.
Low boots with white leather trim around the leg was fairly popular. Black Doc's were not worn until later on '69/70, and it became fairly common to dye your brown Doc's black. The police started wearing black Doc's around the same time!
The 11 eyelet Astronaut wasn't very popular because it didn't have the heel tag. Air Wear later made an 11 eyelet too.
Doc's were mainly seen on kids who couldn't afford or get a hold of suede head styled shoes such as Brougues and loafers.
Monkey boots, which look like a tennis shoe boot, were worn by girls and kiddies. They didn't come in big sizes.
'70-'71 girls wore big clumpy shoes with flared heels. and sometimes loafers. They wore them with tights with patterns up the side, the all over patterned tights, more often than not, white.
American Brogues were worn around '70, usually black or tan grained. Smoothies(not to be confused with Smoothies) were also worn, same as brogues, except no pattern. Almost always shiny black or maroon ungrained finish.
Loafers were worn around '71. Along with Norweigans with a basket weave. Usually black, occasionally maroon. Sometimes worn with black and white striped laces.
PANTS:
Levis were always the jean of choice in London, the style was same as today's with the exception of a zip instead of a button fly. Other brand of jeans were Lee Rider, which was not too common, because of their baggier higher waist. Wrangler, which had much of the same dimensions as Levi ruled in all places outside London after late '69. They were wider legged and preshrunk.
At first jeans were simply cuffed or cut off at the appropriate height. Bleach was used to make your pants have an older faded look, so you didn't look like you'd just bought em. The only drawback was that the bleach would ruin the stitching.
Wide belts passed t he ever popular braces up in Early '70 during mid-suede phase. Either black or brown was appropriate.
Army trousers rolled up were also a skinhead style, sometimes even baggy trousers were worn with a baggy old mans shirt.
Levi Sta-Prest were a skinhead staple as well. Crews sometimes would sport the same color style and often you would find one mob wearing white(very smart) sta-prest and the other crew wearing dark green. Any color would do, as long as they were sta-prest. Imitations never ever surpassed Levis.
Cords, white or beige, were worn early on. But around '71 the black, bottle green, or navy straight leg caught on. Always short, worn with black shoes, black socks, and a patterned polo.
(Could be expanded on Ruperts etc. - Tom)
Coats:
Early on almost any jacket would do. In 68-69 army jackets; donkey jackets; work coats, Royal Air Force great coats, some parkas, lightweight nylon jackets, Levi, leather, denim, or suede jackets (or Wrangler). The point was, as long as it wasn't fashionable, it was accepted. The exception was Levi's which have always been in style. Except in the 70's with the whole bellbottomed, flared - preshrunk jeans fiasco.
Frequently, Macs, short and straight appeared in 69'/70. Colors included; off whites, blues and greys. Sometimes worn with Trilbies. Macs and Sheepskins were the skins outer coats. Sheepskins were a symbol of status. This was a coat that could be worn throughout the sixties and early seventies with much pride. It's only rival was the Crombie, which everyone eventually had, then the sheepskin came back into fashion.
The Crombie is sometimes referred to as The Definitive Skinhead Coat. This is very untrue. Skinhead Hairstyles and Crombies missed each other by a year's time. Many boys who wore crombies often had shoulder length hair. "The only time I've ever seen a skinhead haircut and a Crombie on the same person was in 1978 or 9"(Ferguson).
Most crombies were Chesterfields never made of real Crombie Cloth. Nearly always navy in color with Fly front.
The Uniform developed around the Crombie was as follows: Navy Crombie, Red prefolded pocket square(kerchief) black and white checked B. Sherman, open necked; Black or White Levi's Sta-prest; red socks, black shoes ( don't ask me why, this is the way it is.-Chris)
This style varied in areas away from London as Suedehead kids chased fashion conscious baggy clothed southern Keeper Uppers they called 'Hippies'.(just a side note I thought I'd add - Chris)
The most common jacket nowadays the Bomber M-1 or Alpha were seen in the 69-70 season.
SUIT AND JACKETS:
An accessory worn mainly at night, and later with more constancy during the Suedehead phase. The suit seems to becoming a very forgotten part of skinhead regime. The skinhead suit jacket was mainly a three button number. The pocket flaps were constantly increasing in size. With lots of tickets pockets, in fact an insane number of pockets which, I think, not only made the jacket look goofy but wasn't very smart at all.
(Could be expanded from mohair and tonics through to Prince of Wales and Dogtooth - Tom)
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