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Heh heh heh... should I get a road bike?

i read somewhere that it was the only race where riders would double-wrap their bars, weight be damned! that alone says a lot.

Cheers:D

Used to be just double wrapping and maybe special tyres - these days riders use all sorts of special bikes and mods for P-R. Cyclocross bikes are popular as you can fit wider tyres, Trek put elastomer dampers in the frame tubes for a few years but still no Discovery channel riders won:D. Steel is a popular choice and almost everybody who wins seems to run Vittoria Evo Pave tyres. Wheels are usually handbuilts, 36 spokes, shallow non aero rims as they have more give in them. Front suspension was used for a few years in the late 90s but then quite rightly banned as it was against the spirit of the race imho. Gearing is usually something weird like 54/48 chainrings at the front and a straight through 11-21 cassette...its not only the hardest its the most technical. the bike prepe requires thought.

Enough rambling - my original point was that a roadbike is strong enough for this - so its likely strong enough for an urban commute.:)
 
Yeah, but if you could afford it, could you resist the temptation not to buy a beautiful bike when you're in a shop stuffed full of lovelies?

:D

I would like to remind people that even with all the new tech, proper road bikes for racing are made of materials that are very unforgiving even if you spend a shit load. Nice if you want that, the rigidity gives specific ride but for the standard London road, its not the best way to go.

Steel road bikes ftw!

Can't buy new these days. Second hand you can still get good quality road bike for < 200 quid.
 
I would like to remind people that even with all the new tech, proper road bikes for racing are made of materials that are very unforgiving even if you spend a shit load. Nice if you want that, the rigidity gives specific ride but for the standard London road, its not the best way to go.

Hmmm...I love steel bikes but my recent foray into titanium has already convinced me that its the ultimate material for bike frames - all the compliant comfort of steel but 4 times stronger and it doesn't corrode. Theres not even any paint to scratch and most domestic power tools aren't strong enough to even scrtach it anyway.

Carbon fibre and aluminium you can keep though.

Steel road bikes ftw!

Can't buy new these days. Second hand you can still get good quality road bike for < 200 quid.

You can - for between .£6-700. Not as cheap as alu but you can still get em. You can buy a nice steel racer for £200 but in fairness there are also some right dogs out there that ride poorly
 
Hmmm...I love steel bikes but my recent foray into titanium has already convinced me that its the ultimate material for bike frames - all the compliant comfort of steel but 4 times stronger and it doesn't corrode. Theres not even any paint to scratch and most domestic power tools aren't strong enough to even scrtach it anyway.

Carbon fibre and aluminium you can keep though.



You can - for between .£6-700. Not as cheap as alu but you can still get em. You can buy a nice steel racer for £200 but in fairness there are also some right dogs out there that ride poorly

How much for a Titanium frame then?
 
I should say, shouldn't buy new. Wait for some twat who thinks buying a great bike is the same as getting fit then buy it off them a year later for loads less.

I'd never spend 800 quid on a bike. Too impractical, could never leave it anywhere.
 
I should say, shouldn't buy new. Wait for some twat who thinks buying a great bike is the same as getting fit then buy it off them a year later for loads less.

I'd never spend 800 quid on a bike. Too impractical, could never leave it anywhere.

Different strokes... I don't leave it anywhere but work or home and wouldn't want to. My £1200 racer cost me about £35 a month for a year due to cycle to work scheme!
 
First Sigmund, let me embrace you as a brother, for are not all cyclists brothers at heart, an ecumenical family? Oh we may argue over the nuances of which approach is best, but at the end of the day cycling is a broad church and we are all followers of the true faith, whether roadies, mtbers, hybrids, singlespeeders or whatever. Obviously I'm excluding fixies, as they're just deviants.

So in this spirit of friendship and brotherhood, let me explain how what you've said is completely wrong, and I am absolutely right. Let us start with the fundamentals.

1) Beer. How do you intend to carry this? Now please don't talk to me about rucsacs, as the idea of 6 bottles of beer bouncing up and down on my back really does not strike me as a good plan. As such, you have two options. One is to give up beer. The other is to get a bike that takes panniers. I leave identifying the correct solution as an exercise for the reader.

2) Frame strength. I'm not sure where you live, or what your daily ride is like, so I can but go on the basis of mine. It's a 12 mile ride from my house to my office, with a mix of a road and standard city roads. With the usual planning of bike lanes, mixed use infrastructure this will see me having to hop up on kerbs, ride across potholes, run speed bumps, yadda yadda yadda. Again there are two options. I can either weave and veer unpredictably in my lane, relying on the road awareness of car and bus drivers to make sure they've given a good safety distance when overtaking me. Alternatively, I can just keep a straight path, hopping and clearing obstacles when possible, but inevitably just having to ride straight across others. As my local a&e has not started a loyalty card scheme yet to reward frequent visits, I go for the latter.

3) The weather. Good old blighty eh. There was two bloody inches of snow here on Sunday,then Sunday afternoon it was shining bright, then pissing with rain for the next 2 days. This does rather suggest two good things for a bike - the ability to fit mudguards, and also a frame that won't rust. I'm sorry you dislike aluminium, but I really do like the way that my old giant has done me 7 years of commuting with nary a complaint despite the numerous scratches and scuffs it's had. Unfortunately, steel is not quite as forgiving, and for a commute bike I really don't think ti is an option.

4) Parts and maintenance. The OP has identified himself as a keen mtb'er (splendid fellow). That means he's going to have a regular supply of components that might be a bit long in the tooth for proper bouncing around hills, but just fine for commute use. I'm also at a loss on your point about handlebars. Yes indeed, wide bars designed for leverage and a spread out stance are not a good idea for weaving between cars. It took me around 2 minutes with a hacksaw to sort that one out. Now the only thing that I have to consider when squeezing between traffic is the width of my arse.
 
First Sigmund, let me embrace you as a brother, for are not all cyclists brothers at heart, an ecumenical family? Oh we may argue over the nuances of which approach is best, but at the end of the day cycling is a broad church and we are all followers of the true faith, whether roadies, mtbers, hybrids, singlespeeders or whatever. Obviously I'm excluding fixies, as they're just deviants.

So in this spirit of friendship and brotherhood, let me explain how what you've said is completely wrong, and I am absolutely right. Let us start with the fundamentals.

1) Beer. How do you intend to carry this? Now please don't talk to me about rucsacs, as the idea of 6 bottles of beer bouncing up and down on my back really does not strike me as a good plan. As such, you have two options. One is to give up beer. The other is to get a bike that takes panniers. I leave identifying the correct solution as an exercise for the reader.

2) Frame strength. I'm not sure where you live, or what your daily ride is like, so I can but go on the basis of mine. It's a 12 mile ride from my house to my office, with a mix of a road and standard city roads. With the usual planning of bike lanes, mixed use infrastructure this will see me having to hop up on kerbs, ride across potholes, run speed bumps, yadda yadda yadda. Again there are two options. I can either weave and veer unpredictably in my lane, relying on the road awareness of car and bus drivers to make sure they've given a good safety distance when overtaking me. Alternatively, I can just keep a straight path, hopping and clearing obstacles when possible, but inevitably just having to ride straight across others. As my local a&e has not started a loyalty card scheme yet to reward frequent visits, I go for the latter.

3) The weather. Good old blighty eh. There was two bloody inches of snow here on Sunday,then Sunday afternoon it was shining bright, then pissing with rain for the next 2 days. This does rather suggest two good things for a bike - the ability to fit mudguards, and also a frame that won't rust. I'm sorry you dislike aluminium, but I really do like the way that my old giant has done me 7 years of commuting with nary a complaint despite the numerous scratches and scuffs it's had. Unfortunately, steel is not quite as forgiving, and for a commute bike I really don't think ti is an option.

4) Parts and maintenance. The OP has identified himself as a keen mtb'er (splendid fellow). That means he's going to have a regular supply of components that might be a bit long in the tooth for proper bouncing around hills, but just fine for commute use. I'm also at a loss on your point about handlebars. Yes indeed, wide bars designed for leverage and a spread out stance are not a good idea for weaving between cars. It took me around 2 minutes with a hacksaw to sort that one out. Now the only thing that I have to consider when squeezing between traffic is the width of my arse.

All valid points, Mr Eddy Sir, but where's the romance? The sleek Italian groupset? The unbeatable feeling of having a little commuter race with someone in massively OTT lycra and wiping the floor with them?

The hodge podge lump of metal you advocate just isn't sexy and road bikes are sexy.
 
The hodge podge lump of metal you advocate just isn't sexy and road bikes are sexy.

Ah, dear chap, I am saddened. You talk of lust, and lust is a dreadful thing for a commute bike. Lust leads to the temptation of others, and usually leads to you standing broken hearted looking at the railings where you chained your bike.
 
Ah, dear chap, I am saddened. You talk of lust, and lust is a dreadful thing for a commute bike. Lust leads to the temptation of others, and usually leads to you standing broken hearted looking at the railings where you chained your bike.

I have experienced such loss :(

So now it's either at home or at work, no risking it in the street.
 
1) Beer. How do you intend to carry this? Now please don't talk to me about rucsacs, as the idea of 6 bottles of beer bouncing up and down on my back really does not strike me as a good plan. As such, you have two options. One is to give up beer. The other is to get a bike that takes panniers. I leave identifying the correct solution as an exercise for the reader.


good quality bag makes it no problem. pac courier bags have 4 way straps that hold everything to you, no bouncing. a cheaper alternative is the ortlieb messenger bag, i can happily carry 24 cans in that :cool:

furthermore, i fucking hate panniers! i know there can't be that much difference with carrying the weight on your body but it feels like some kind of horrible ball and chain unbalancing the bike, making it wider and changing the centre of gravity to position that makes the bike harder to control... and ruining the smooth lines my sweet bicycle.

2) Frame strength. I'm not sure where you live, or what your daily ride is like, so I can but go on the basis of mine. It's a 12 mile ride from my house to my office, with a mix of a road and standard city roads. With the usual planning of bike lanes, mixed use infrastructure this will see me having to hop up on kerbs, ride across potholes, run speed bumps, yadda yadda yadda. Again there are two options. I can either weave and veer unpredictably in my lane, relying on the road awareness of car and bus drivers to make sure they've given a good safety distance when overtaking me. Alternatively, I can just keep a straight path, hopping and clearing obstacles when possible, but inevitably just having to ride straight across others. As my local a&e has not started a loyalty card scheme yet to reward frequent visits, I go for the latter.

none of what you describe is any problem whatsoever on a steel road/track bike. a little bit of bike handling skill goes a long way. i couriered for 4 years on a steel road bike carrying VAST packages up to 300 miles a week on london roads, no trips to casualty, i damaged 2 frames in that time: 1 was hit by a van while i was eating in a restaurant, the other failed due to crash damage from it's previous owner.

3) The weather. Good old blighty eh. There was two bloody inches of snow here on Sunday,then Sunday afternoon it was shining bright, then pissing with rain for the next 2 days. This does rather suggest two good things for a bike - the ability to fit mudguards, and also a frame that won't rust. I'm sorry you dislike aluminium, but I really do like the way that my old giant has done me 7 years of commuting with nary a complaint despite the numerous scratches and scuffs it's had. Unfortunately, steel is not quite as forgiving, and for a commute bike I really don't think ti is an option.

good quality steel frames have a lifetime up to and beyond 30 years, aluminium is 10 tops. look out for cracks. the rust only comes into play if you store outside.

4) Parts and maintenance.

go single speed.

steel pwns alu:

king of bicycles!

i have an old one. it is the best thing since sliced bread. a mate bought it in italy s/h but it was too big for him. frame + forks to me for £120 :eek: yum. Lemon Eddy, i say this as a reformed "slick tyred mtb ftw" type. don't knock it till you try it, your concerns though understandable don't actually translate to reality. you would be very surprised if someone were to lend you a decent audax bike. :)
 
Hmmm...I love steel bikes but my recent foray into titanium has already convinced me that its the ultimate material for bike frames - all the compliant comfort of steel but 4 times stronger and it doesn't corrode. Theres not even any paint to scratch and most domestic power tools aren't strong enough to even scrtach it anyway.

Carbon fibre and aluminium you can keep though.



You can - for between .£6-700. Not as cheap as alu but you can still get em. You can buy a nice steel racer for £200 but in fairness there are also some right dogs out there that ride poorly

Yep, my crackers still hurt from a ride two weeks ago on an ali frame. I'm back on my old raleigh apex for a while, Reynolds K2 steel, no idea if it's any cop but it's so much more comfortable.

A mate has had a load of shoulder problems with a carrera road bike, eventually we noticed it had aluminium front forks! Since he got a dawes steel tourer his shoulders have been fine. Of course, the more upright geometry may also have an impact, but it's certainly far less harsh.

I'm actually surprised that there seem to be so few 'soft' aluminium bikes - as a material it's much less stiff than steel, it's just the fact that its density is so much lower that lets people make really stiff frames out of it (the diameter of the tubes tends to be much, much greater).
 
I think Boycey has addressed all you points (very well) Lemon Eddy. But I will add a couple more.

#I'm quite amazed at all these 'obstacles' you encounter on an urban commute - and that you need to hop over them lol, like some kind of urbanised MTB evangleist ninja :D - seriously mate, if you look over your shoulder and keep your eyes and ears open you can safely change direction to avoid anything. Anticipation.

#You cite corrosion as reason not to get steel but aluminium aint exactly without its issues -like the fact that it has a 'fatigue life', everytime you ride it you damage it slightly. Add to this its not a compliant material and its very, very hard to build in any level of flexibility...and then factor in using a MTB frame design thats designed to be far stronger than a road frame and consequently unlikely to budge even a bit when you do hit something...your tyres, rims and body are going to get the benefit of its intransegence. MTBs ride nasty on the road. Its not apparent until you ride something 700c just how nasty, but they do.

#So you're going to hacksaw your 56cm wide MTB bars...and fit higher gears...and fit slicks. Sound an awful lit like a hybrid - so why not just get a hybrid and swallow your pride?

Besides, the OP has a MTB already and this is a 'should I get a road bike?' thread not a 'should I get a down at heel MTB' thread.

:)
 
A touring / audax bike *is* a road bike - its just not a racing bike.

I understood that differences were...

Mudguards - not standard on road bikes, might even be difficult to fit on a road bike but standard on an Audax
Racks / Mounts for racks - often not on road bikes but standard on touring bikes

Also I thought that the wheels were wider on touring / audax allowing for extra strength (perhaps) and so that fatter tyres would fit better

The geometry is also somewhat different. Built more for comfort than speed.

But if there are differences between Audax / Touring - or even Road / Triathlon bikes I've go no idea.

I've got both a touring and a tri bike. The triathlon bike being noticeably faster but not anywhere as comfortable as my touring bike.

I recon the my touring bike is even stronger than my mountain bike. My touring bike has been off road and I have not managed to buckle a wheel yet. (but the tourer was 3 times as much as the mountain bike, coming in at around £1,600 for a custom build)
 
an audax is actually a racing tourer ;)

But it *is* a road bike, falling into the family of road bikes. BigPhil seems to think its not a road bike! Its not even a tourer, its a racing bike ffs, audax is a form of racing after all (though many of the bikes ust get used for training / commuting / light touring). Its just a racer with clearance for guards and 25 or 28c rubber.
 
On the subject of road bikes, what benefits are there is swapping out an aluminium seatpost with a carbon? It's pretty damn sore downstairs at the mo.

I've got a Specialized Allez, for info.
 
But it *is* a road bike, falling into the family of road bikes. BigPhil seems to think its not a road bike! Its not even a tourer, its a racing bike ffs, audax is a form of racing after all (though many of the bikes ust get used for training / commuting / light touring). Its just a racer with clearance for guards and 25 or 28c rubber.

I bow down to your superior knowledge
 
Back again, and on with the theological debate. Boycey, dear sir, I'm sorry but I must refute much of what you say:

"good quality bag makes it no problem. pac courier bags have 4 way straps that hold everything to you, no bouncing. a cheaper alternative is the ortlieb messenger bag, i can happily carry 24 cans in that :cool:

furthermore, i fucking hate panniers! i know there can't be that much difference with carrying the weight on your body but it feels like some kind of horrible ball and chain unbalancing the bike, making it wider and changing the centre of gravity to position that makes the bike harder to control... and ruining the smooth lines my sweet bicycle"

Chap, dear chap. Surely you're not really arguing that strapping 24 cans of beer to your back is going to be as comfortable as racked on your bike? Also, surely you're not really claiming that equally dividing the weight low down on each side of the wheel affects your handling as much as that sort of weight high up? You've raised your centre of gravity, you've made yourself personally far less balanced - these are far greater hits to handling. Consider also that each time you lift out of the saddle, you're lifting that weight too, so cranking up a hill becomes far more work. As for lines, well see above. The looks of a commute bike are a very, very low priority consideration, in fact from a theft point of view the uglier the better.

"none of what you describe is any problem whatsoever on a steel road/track bike. a little bit of bike handling skill goes a long way. i couriered for 4 years on a steel road bike carrying VAST packages up to 300 miles a week on london roads, no trips to casualty, i damaged 2 frames in that time: 1 was hit by a van while i was eating in a restaurant, the other failed due to crash damage from it's previous owner."

I'm deeply happy to hear that you've yet to have a crash, and wish you the best of luck in continuing that streak. Unfortunately my own run is not quite so lucky, but such is life. Either way, are you really claiming that as a cyclist the safest thing you can do is not keep a straight path, but veer around for road obstacles? I really do think that would be a very questionable assertion. Or are you claiming that the road hazards I've described - bumps, bike paths that hop onto pavements, potholes, steps, etc - don't feature as part of your commute. If that's the case, then I'm rather envious.

"good quality steel frames have a lifetime up to and beyond 30 years, aluminium is 10 tops. look out for cracks. the rust only comes into play if you store outside."

Again, this is a commute bike. It's going to get scuffed and scratched, and it will be stored outside I'd have thought. If that's not the case, again I have to respond with envy. I lock my bike to bike racks outside my office, where other people scrape their bikes against mine. It gets locked to street furniture outside shops, gyms and pubs. How else do you use your bike if it's for general commuting.

Now it's absolutely correct that aluminium does not have infinite fatigue life. However, your 10 year claim is very, very inaccurate. The marin parked outside my office right now is older than that, the second mtb I ever brought. It had a good 4 years of hard offroad life before being retired to commute life. , which it's been doing faithfully for many years.

"Lemon Eddy, i say this as a reformed "slick tyred mtb ftw" type. don't knock it till you try it"

Somewhat presumptious to think I've not got experience of big wheeled commuting too, and rather wrong too, I'm afraid. In terms of recreational hours, I probably spend as much time on my roadbike as my mtb. My first commute bike (and by god are we going back, we're talking the 80s and a Sun Solo) was a road bike, as were my bikes for many years after. So, having tried it, am I allowed to knock it?

[edited a missing "not"]
 
#I'm quite amazed at all these 'obstacles' you encounter on an urban commute - and that you need to hop over them lol, like some kind of urbanised MTB evangleist ninja :D - seriously mate, if you look over your shoulder and keep your eyes and ears open you can safely change direction to avoid anything. Anticipation.

I'm really quite fond of life, honest I am. Lovely wife, beautiful daughter, good friends, great toys to play with, etc, etc. Really, very happy indeed.

I mention this only because you seem to think I'm suicidal. Otherwise how do you contend that I'm commuting by bike, without either anticipating obstacles, keeping my eyes and ears open, and generally being as aware of whats going on as I can. Strangely enough, this is not exactly arcane knowledge you're divulging here. It's kind of a prerequisite for anyone who cycles a lot in town, and would like to make it in one piece to their destination. Whether it's drivers running reds, veering into cycle paths, opening doors on you, overtaking and turning left, pulling in and clipping your front whee, you name it, I'd say I probably encounter it at least once a week.

What anticipation and road sense won't let me do though is magically get past the pavements that the bike lane switches onto at 3 points with a stepped curb, or the speed bumps that cover the whole road on (I think) 4 of the streets my route takes in, or the rather nasty potholes that are formed across the width of some of the bikelanes just at rather dodgy points to pull into the main road, etc. I must admit though that I do deliberately (and rather naughtily) batter down a short run of steps as much because it adds a wee laugh to start my day, as because it saves some distance.

For these, I use elite ninja biking skills known only by a shadowy brotherhood of the elite (we, a few million bmx'ers and mtb'ers) such as manuals, hops and jumps. I am even prepared to pass on these ancient secrets to you, for a small fee.

"You cite corrosion as reason not to get steel but aluminium aint exactly without its issues -like the fact that it has a 'fatigue life', everytime you ride it you damage it slightly. Add to this its not a compliant material and its very, very hard to build in any level of flexibility...and then factor in using a MTB frame design thats designed to be far stronger than a road frame and consequently unlikely to budge even a bit when you do hit something...your tyres, rims and body are going to get the benefit of its intransegence. MTBs ride nasty on the road."

See above responce to boycey for the old fatigue life chestnut. Sure aluminium has a fatigue life, quite right. It's just for a decent old frame, that fatigue life's a long, long period. I'll let you know when I see the first crack in my Marin.

For the comfort factor, it's swings and roundabouts. The more upright position of an mtb means less backache. Not having to carry load on your body means a lot less stress and fatigue. When you do have an obstacle to hit, just raise up and let arms and legs be your suspension, or better still hop it.

"So you're going to hacksaw your 56cm wide MTB bars...and fit higher gears...and fit slicks. Sound an awful lit like a hybrid - so why not just get a hybrid and swallow your pride?"

Because slicks and gears cost me a whole £55 on a frame that I already had.

"Besides, the OP has a MTB already and this is a 'should I get a road bike?' thread not a 'should I get a down at heel MTB' thread."

Very true. My inital post was a suggestion to his op, asking the best bike for an mtb'er for commuting. I apologise for the continued hijack. Perhaps best for a separate thread?
 
Chap, dear chap. Surely you're not really arguing that strapping 24 cans of beer to your back is going to be as comfortable as racked on your bike? Also, surely you're not really claiming that equally dividing the weight low down on each side of the wheel affects your handling as much as that sort of weight high up? You've raised your centre of gravity, you've made yourself personally far less balanced - these are far greater hits to handling. Consider also that each time you lift out of the saddle, you're lifting that weight too, so cranking up a hill becomes far more work. As for lines, well see above. The looks of a commute bike are a very, very low priority consideration, in fact from a theft point of view the uglier the better.

not as comfortable true, but lets face it, if physical comfort were the main issue we'd all be riding recumbents... let's just not go there ;) although raising the centre of gravity in theory makes you less stable, strapping it to your body gives you control over it. in my experience there lies the rub. a fixed weight on the bicycle is out of my control and reduces the gaps i can squeeze through, panniers also fit it to the back which is uneven loading from front to back, this is not good on hills. i've ridden up mountains with weight fixed to me and with weight fixed a pannier and i'd go the bag route everytime bar midday sun when it's good not have it on the back, this however does not affect city riding. a weight fixed to me is in my control, i can manipulate it over fiesta mirrors and under hgv mirrors and avoid that embarrassing wheel arch-pannier interface. the weight is also oriented around the centre of the bike so it does not affect cornering in the same way that panniers do, weaving/filtering traffic is a nightmare with panniers. as for looks and theft, my defence is dirt and a shit hot lock.

I'm deeply happy to hear that you've yet to have a crash, and wish you the best of luck in continuing that streak. Unfortunately my own run is not quite so lucky, but such is life. Either way, are you really claiming that as a cyclist the safest thing you can do is keep a straight path, and not veer around for road obstacles? I really do think that would be a very questionable assertion. Or are you claiming that the road hazards I've described - bumps, bike paths that hop onto pavements, potholes, steps, etc - don't feature as part of your commute. If that's the case, then I'm rather envious.

as i mentioned bicycle handling skills are the way forwards. small wheelies/endos/bunnyhops mean you can go straight over those hazards without deviating from a dead straight path. unless your panniered up in which case only the wheelies are possible, putting all the weight on the rear wheel [already an unevenly loaded suspension on a geared bike] increases the chances of damage tenfold should you hit anything so it's no surprise that you feel the need to veer around every obstacle on the road. anyway as far as safety goes going straight is far far safer, rather damage my bike than damage me by veering into the path of overtaking traffic.

Again, this is a commute bike. It's going to get scuffed and scratched, and it will be stored outside I'd have thought. If that's not the case, again I have to respond with envy. I lock my bike to bike racks outside my office, where other people scrape their bikes against mine. It gets locked to street furniture outside shops, gyms and pubs. How else do you use your bike if it's for general commuting.

i do keep my bike inside at home, when i said stored that's what i meant. even with a alu frame if you have to keep your bike out side your maintenance costs are going to be through the roof, your drivetrain will be extremely rusty. i use my bike for a very similar purpose as yours, steel gives me no problems.

Now it's absolutely correct that aluminium does not have infinite fatigue life. However, your 10 year claim is very, very inaccurate. The marin parked outside my office right now is older than that, the second mtb I ever brought. It had a good 4 years of hard offroad life before being retired to commute life. , which it's been doing faithfully for many years.

i'm very glad your bike is still in good shape. my experience tells me that aluminium does not last as long as steel regardless of corrosion issues. if an aluminium frame lasts 10 years+ then it's had a fucking good innings.

Somewhat presumptious to think I've not got experience of big wheeled commuting too, and rather wrong too, I'm afraid. In terms of recreational hours, I probably spend as much time on my roadbike as my mtb. My first commute bike (and by god are we going back, we're talking the 80s and a Sun Solo) was a road bike, as were my bikes for many years after. So, having tried it, am I allowed to knock it?

true, utterly presumptuous of me- i'm bang to rights there :) we've all got our own ways of doing things. the fact that we actually bother to post these opinions in this way is testament to the passion that the cycling experience stirs up. as you were :)
 
I'd have to agree with Boycey on the panniers thing. When I've been on long tours in the past, and carried everything in panniers, I've not really liked the feel of the bag. For anything under about 20 miles I'd rather carry it on my back.
 
not as comfortable true, but lets face it, if physical comfort were the main issue we'd all be riding recumbents... let's just not go there ;)

I think we're all agreed that recumbents are not the way forward. Having tried one once, I'd have to say that the experience of being at wheel height to the trucks and vans whizzing past was somewhat fucking terrifying.

Other than that though, I think we're now firmly into personal preference & circumstances territory. Will rust kill a steel frame before metal fatigue gets the alu? Is weight on the back more unwieldy than weight on a rack. Clearly these really are issues of opinion rather than hard facts.

So, let us agree on the core issues at least. Any form of commuting by bike is good, all van drivers are psychotic, myopic bastards*, and bmw drivers** should be rounded up and deported to somewhere with no roads.



*with apologies to any van drivers out there. I'm sure it's just my bad luck that you all appear to be fucking dangerous bastards intent on trying to run me over, and there's actually lots of nice ones out there
** no fecking chance of apologising to any of them. Twice knocked off a bike, both times by beemers. Fuckers, all of 'em, I tell ya.
 
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