Converting a minibus into a camper?
- Thread starter TopCat
- Start date
bolt in some kitchen cupboards. fit a bed - ours has two benches running down the sides with an aisle, and the top of the benches fold together to make the bed - gives you lots of storage space under the benches too.
To insure it/make it officially a camper i think it needs running water, a bed and a stove (ours is just a big camping stove bolted to the top of a kitchen surface).
To insure it/make it officially a camper i think it needs running water, a bed and a stove (ours is just a big camping stove bolted to the top of a kitchen surface).
Onket
Je suis [CONTENT REMOVED]
I remember seeing some great conversions in a few magazines I bought when I decided I wanted a camper.
i still need to learn to drive though, so I stopped buying them.
<e2a link> http://www.campervanconversion.co.uk/
i still need to learn to drive though, so I stopped buying them.
<e2a link> http://www.campervanconversion.co.uk/
oneflewover
Following "The Tigers"
All the glass would make it suffer terribly with condensation overnight, you would need to take windows out to allow more insulation.
There are people who have posted blogs about this TopCat. Having looked at a few I realised there is no way I'd manage it myself 
Anyway - loads of blokes seem to do this and proudly document progress on the internet, I'm sure that'll help There are also some funny ones of Americans converting fuckoff lorries into mobile homes with verandas on the back and stuff. They'd get stuck on a roundabout within 2 miles of their homes over here but in the States....worth a look for the fun of it anyway.
Anyway - loads of blokes seem to do this and proudly document progress on the internet, I'm sure that'll help
There are also some funny ones of Americans converting fuckoff lorries into mobile homes with verandas on the back and stuff. They'd get stuck on a roundabout within 2 miles of their homes over here but in the States....worth a look for the fun of it anyway.Its pretty easy and cheap if you start with the basics, then overtime add the components you need (sink, cooker, leccy) etc.
Either put in curtain runners and make-up some curtains or make your own thermo-mats for the windows.
Insulating the back can be done over a weekend; all you need is roof flashing tape, Celotex matting, Thermo matting and some strong plastic sheeting.
If the back is flat, then a blow-up mattress and cook on one of those small camping stoves (leaving a window/door open if you're going to be cooking inside).
This is what I did, then over time and when I could afford it, just added to the basics, I've now got a custom R&R bed in the back, cupboards, cooker leccy etc.
mr steev
magic thought wizard
You would need those bits for a campervan insurance class though. I don't know what insurance for a mini-bus would be like.
Sunray
Its sunny somewhere.
I did consider it but its one fuck off job and a half. I've seen some amazing internal conversions by joiners in a high top but its what they do for work so nothing to them.
Hardest bit is to cut the windows if its a van and insulate and seal the innards esp if its got a cooker. Otherwise it'll get well damp and that can induce some serious rust as the inside doesn't have drain holes for condensation in the body panels.
http://www.campervanconversion.co.uk/campervan-insulation.html
Hardest bit is to cut the windows if its a van and insulate and seal the innards esp if its got a cooker. Otherwise it'll get well damp and that can induce some serious rust as the inside doesn't have drain holes for condensation in the body panels.
http://www.campervanconversion.co.uk/campervan-insulation.html
IIRC if you get the seats out the insurance drops from minibus class - which is very expensive - but as you say, you need the sink / oven / bed to drop further into the camper class
As mentioned before, the insulation is easy, looking at the site above, its the same as I've mentioned
1. Bare metal -> I covered this with roof flashing tape (soundproofs)
2. Insulation -> Celotex covered with Thermowrap - double insulation
3. Vapour barrier (a sheet of polythenewill do) - Large sheet cut to size
4. Plywood panel or cupboard etc. - Use the original panels, if in bad condition 1 or 2 ply and use the old one as a template.
I've loads of pics on how to do the above
Roof flashing tape (will do all the inside panels in the back) £15 approx
Celotex 8' 4' £15
Thermowap £15
Polythene £5
Ply (if needed) cost me £12
Pic of the camper I'm current restoring - hand painted as well
1. Bare metal -> I covered this with roof flashing tape (soundproofs)
2. Insulation -> Celotex covered with Thermowrap - double insulation
3. Vapour barrier (a sheet of polythenewill do) - Large sheet cut to size
4. Plywood panel or cupboard etc. - Use the original panels, if in bad condition 1 or 2 ply and use the old one as a template.
I've loads of pics on how to do the above
Roof flashing tape (will do all the inside panels in the back) £15 approx
Celotex 8' 4' £15
Thermowap £15
Polythene £5
Ply (if needed) cost me £12
Pic of the camper I'm current restoring - hand painted as well
Sorry, don't want to de-rail, but a pic a couple of weeks before. With a bit of research it's quite cheap and easy to build yourself a nice camper.
I didn't have any experience (apart from servicing the car), but have taught myself to weld, mechanics, prepping the body, and I’m currently sorting the interior – its all great fun and cheap, buy 2nd hand parts, and by learning how to do the work yourself you’re less likely to get ripped off.
I didn't have any experience (apart from servicing the car), but have taught myself to weld, mechanics, prepping the body, and I’m currently sorting the interior – its all great fun and cheap, buy 2nd hand parts, and by learning how to do the work yourself you’re less likely to get ripped off.
Sunray
Its sunny somewhere.
Time and having the space to do that is a big problem. I'd love to have the space to park and maintain it for myself. Doing it is great fun, but in inner London space is at a premium.
I'm very interested in the rollering, tho I'm not sure a dark colour is sensible for a camper if you want to sleep when the sun comes up.
How long did it take to flatten it back?
I'm very interested in the rollering, tho I'm not sure a dark colour is sensible for a camper if you want to sleep when the sun comes up.
How long did it take to flatten it back?
That's actually at my parent’s house as I've no drive, but there's no reason you can't roller it outside your house, its well easy, not messy and quick. The paint will start to cure after about 10 minutes, after an hour its dry.
I’ve not flatted back yet, but anticipate about 2 days, I got the mix for the roof 100%, so that doesn't actually need doing, although I'll give it a quick go anyway, but the sides are slightly thick and have orange peel, so yeah, probably 2 days.
If you get the mix correct, then flatting should only take a few hours.
Of course this all depends on the finish you want, some people have just whacked on 1 coat and left it, and to be honest it looks fine, others have gone down the 3 coat road, with flatting in-between and pretty much achieved a show finish.
The only problem with dark colours is that they show all imperfections however small so your panels need to be really straight.
A 2.5L tin of rustoleum will set you back £25 and is enough (just) to do a T25, I brought 2 tins just to be safe and also have some spare in-case the bus picks up any scratches.
I’ve not flatted back yet, but anticipate about 2 days, I got the mix for the roof 100%, so that doesn't actually need doing, although I'll give it a quick go anyway, but the sides are slightly thick and have orange peel, so yeah, probably 2 days.
If you get the mix correct, then flatting should only take a few hours.
Of course this all depends on the finish you want, some people have just whacked on 1 coat and left it, and to be honest it looks fine, others have gone down the 3 coat road, with flatting in-between and pretty much achieved a show finish.
The only problem with dark colours is that they show all imperfections however small so your panels need to be really straight.
A 2.5L tin of rustoleum will set you back £25 and is enough (just) to do a T25, I brought 2 tins just to be safe and also have some spare in-case the bus picks up any scratches.
Sunray
Its sunny somewhere.
This defo makes me want to roller it. I'll go down the breakers to pick up an old panel off a car to practice. Its about 1500 quid to spray the van, so 50 quid in paint is a bargain. That paint is is anti rust to boot.
i'll probably do it an off white colour or a light shade of something.
i'll probably do it an off white colour or a light shade of something.
Do it, and post some pics 
Great tips here
http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Bodywork_and_Glass_Roller_painting
also worth reading the topic thread.
Great tips here
http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Bodywork_and_Glass_Roller_painting
also worth reading the topic thread.
That looks really good Asriel. How much rust did you have in the first place? I've got it at the bottom of the van sides and little patches bubbling up in odd places. I tried sorting some of it out myself last year but picked some quite badly affected areas - the result was....interesting.
I've also got paint peeling off the panel above the back doors where it was painted over before it was sold to me. Would you have to sand off the paint, treat it with antirust and then paint it as you've described?
I've also got paint peeling off the panel above the back doors where it was painted over before it was sold to me. Would you have to sand off the paint, treat it with antirust and then paint it as you've described?
Cheer's Pieface, structurally the bus was fine, however there was quite a bit of rust on the panels & around the windows. There’s only so much patching you should do, before either a) getting a new/2nd hand panel or b) welding in new metal.
On the picture of my bus above, I’ve replaced the n/s rear wing (brand new £40ish), and both doors (2nd hand, £30 for 2), but you can see I had to fill the bottom part of the sliding door, 2nd hand these go for about £200, so a patch was better for the short-term. But my 1st objective was to get the bus looking tidy, so I’m still on the look-out for a new sliding door and rear hatch, as that had to be filled as well, and I can just paint those separately when I get them.
If you’ve got any paint bubbling then its best to sand off the paint like you say, however, you don’t necessarily need to treat it as Rustoleum has anti rust properties, I did though and used a product called Vactan, it’s used by the military and also on metal hulled boats/barges, you can pick it up on eBay quiet cheaply.
So:
Sand down all the rusted areas
Treat with Vactan
Patch then sand any holes -> start with very small amounts of filler otherwise you’ll end up spending hours sanding
Key-up the bodywork
Paint (roller)
Another thing – you obviously don’t have to do this all at once if you’re going to be rollering your van, that’s another beauty of it. Start with a door, get that mint, move onto another panel etc etc.
I spent about 8 days sorting out the bodywork, then 1 day masking/painting. To get a good look/finish, 90% of the work is in the preparation, the painting is the easy bit.
Hope this helps
On the picture of my bus above, I’ve replaced the n/s rear wing (brand new £40ish), and both doors (2nd hand, £30 for 2), but you can see I had to fill the bottom part of the sliding door, 2nd hand these go for about £200, so a patch was better for the short-term. But my 1st objective was to get the bus looking tidy, so I’m still on the look-out for a new sliding door and rear hatch, as that had to be filled as well, and I can just paint those separately when I get them.
If you’ve got any paint bubbling then its best to sand off the paint like you say, however, you don’t necessarily need to treat it as Rustoleum has anti rust properties, I did though and used a product called Vactan, it’s used by the military and also on metal hulled boats/barges, you can pick it up on eBay quiet cheaply.
So:
Sand down all the rusted areas
Treat with Vactan
Patch then sand any holes -> start with very small amounts of filler otherwise you’ll end up spending hours sanding
Key-up the bodywork
Paint (roller)
Another thing – you obviously don’t have to do this all at once if you’re going to be rollering your van, that’s another beauty of it. Start with a door, get that mint, move onto another panel etc etc.
I spent about 8 days sorting out the bodywork, then 1 day masking/painting. To get a good look/finish, 90% of the work is in the preparation, the painting is the easy bit.
Hope this helps
Cheers
It's getting the time and the weather really! I was sanding, doing the antirust thing, putting in filler and MASSIVELY cocking that up in parts, trying to sand it down, getting it wrong, getting annoyed, then doing a couple of coats of primer that needed like 12 hours to dry or something and a couple of coats of paint that also took 12 hrs or so to dry Took me about 4 days to do 2 patches
I just wanted my dad to come along, shake his head, take all the crap off me and do it himself after that
( he hasn't and won't btw - he's not crazy)
It's getting the time and the weather really! I was sanding, doing the antirust thing, putting in filler and MASSIVELY cocking that up in parts, trying to sand it down, getting it wrong, getting annoyed, then doing a couple of coats of primer that needed like 12 hours to dry or something and a couple of coats of paint that also took 12 hrs or so to dry
Took me about 4 days to do 2 patches I just wanted my dad to come along, shake his head, take all the crap off me and do it himself after that
( he hasn't and won't btw - he's not crazy)"In 1972 A crack commando unit was sent to prison by a military court for a crime they didn't commit, these men promptly escaped from a maximum security stockade to the Los Angeles underground, today still wanted by the government they survive as soldier of fortune, if you have a problem, if no-one else can help, and if you can find them, maybe you can hire The A-Team...."
Duuuuuurrrr....duh duh duuuuh duh duh durrrrr
silverfish
Sprinkling glitter on turds
As mentioned before, the insulation is easy, looking at the site above, its the same as I've mentioned
1. Bare metal -> I covered this with roof flashing tape (soundproofs)
2. Insulation -> Celotex covered with Thermowrap - double insulation
3. Vapour barrier (a sheet of polythenewill do) - Large sheet cut to size
4. Plywood panel or cupboard etc. - Use the original panels, if in bad condition 1 or 2 ply and use the old one as a template.
I've loads of pics on how to do the above
Roof flashing tape (will do all the inside panels in the back) £15 approx
Celotex 8' 4' £15
Thermowap £15
Polythene £5
Ply (if needed) cost me £12
Pic of the camper I'm current restoring - hand painted as well
Polzeath???
