I was taken to the Fat Duck for my 30th a couple of years ago and it is a meal I won't forget in a hurry.
I found the decor a bit odd. But this might be because it is quite bright and I felt a bit self conscious. I remember my palms sweating as the wine waiter passed me a wine list that looked like a big old leather bound bible.
We both had the tasting menu which was a real pleasure and very playful. I remember laughing through large parts off the meal. It had a sort of Alice in Wonderland quality to it as tiny portions were delivered on plates with enormous rims, and the food itself was designed to play with your perceptions and expectations (snail porridge, bacon and egg ice cream etc..). I know this sounds really up itself and at times I remember thinking that they were taking the piss out of the customer's. Charging people through the nose, to eat a minute portion of frozen bacon & eggs, at the end of the meal, from a plate that takes up half the table but only has room for a two spoonful portion...
But the joke didn't feel like it was at the customer's expense, although we footed the bill. The whole experience was unlike any other meal I have had. It was more like theatre than food... Worth every penny - although I didn't actually pay myself, so that is easy to say.
The only down side was it ignited a little bit of the politics of envy in my belly. Not only was it exclusive, but even worse it was nice and I think more of us should be able to have those sort of experiences more often. I don't envy most of the trappings of wealth and privilege. I am glad I don't have a public school or Oxbridge education. Sports cars and gin palaces leave me cold and I could never feel comfortable in a Saville Row suit... But, were it within my means I could quite happily dine at the Fat Duck a couple of times a year.
