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Bike broke (26 inch MTB) - need new one quickly :(

Seems I just whack the crank with something soft :hmm:
So what I have is "Shimano Hollowtech" ... so I need one of these ...
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That's hollowtech II not octalink. Why do you want to change it?
Currently it has 36 and 23 (I think) tooth chainwheels - whereas I live on my 38 tooth middle one and most days I feel the need to change up to 48 for a bit - I know they wear out quickly, but I like my SRAM X4 and I have a couple of spare 11-34 8 speed cassettes.

I find the 9 speed Shimano shifter a bit vague ...
 
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Seems I just whack the crank with something soft :hmm:
So what I have is "Shimano Hollowtech" ... so I need one of these ...
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A Park BBT-9 will do your crank bolt and your bottom bracket so that may be a better buy.

If you are not given to lubricating correctly the plastic tensioner bolt (as Shimano calls it) then eventually you will need a Park BBT-10.2 to get it out so just buy that now. The 10.2 is also useful because it can be be in conjunction with a torque wrench to accurately torque the TB to the 8Nm recommended by Shimano.

A cog is a toothed wheel which directly engages another toothed wheel. THESE ARE NOT COGS. There are no cogs on a bike unless you have an IGH.
 
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I wish I'd upgraded to hollowtech - I'm going to actually clean my transmission properly now !
To which end I will cough up for the proper tool.
 
Bloody hell - so many standards !
I was so relieved when I stopped having to carry a hammer with me that I quickly decided square taper was the bee's knees ... but I swear my chainwheels got closer to the frame every time I serviced mine ...

My biggest issue as someone who only does pedals and bottom brackets once in a blue moon is the direction of thread.. I always have to look it up to remind myself..

 
Congrats
Im about to go out and hopefully pick up this thing for £200
always a bit dodge buying a second hand bike, but i think the seller is a bikepart dealer judging by his ebay account
Ah the days of Loot and bikes for £20 😬

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ska invita that bike is looking very appealing right now ...

After hours and hours playing with it and swapping parts ...
Previous owner must have had shares in Loctite - and I need to get a peg spanner to remove the chainring - never needed one in all the years I've been pottering ...

Whereas my old bike felt like a Volvo estate or maybe a Landrover, this one is a bit frisky even with the fork locked down.
I may yet relent and buy something else and have this as a spare bike :(

It doesn't help that I'm a bit under the weather...

I had to over-extend the seatpost by half an inch so that's another expense - looks like I can get a 400mm ...
 
ska invita that bike is looking very appealing right now ...

After hours and hours playing with it and swapping parts ...
Previous owner must have had shares in Loctite - and I need to get a peg spanner to remove the chainring - never needed one in all the years I've been pottering ...

Whereas my old bike felt like a Volvo estate or maybe a Landrover, this one is a bit frisky even with the fork locked down.
I may yet relent and buy something else and have this as a spare bike :(

It doesn't help that I'm a bit under the weather...

I had to over-extend the seatpost by half an inch so that's another expense - looks like I can get a 400mm ...

Dare I ask why you are taking it apart?
I know nothing about bikes so moving the saddle is as brave as I get
 
Dare I ask why you are taking it apart?
I know nothing about bikes so moving the saddle is as brave as I get
It was set up as a semi-serious downhill mountain bike whereas I want something for commuting - but only for another couple of months - thereafter it will be mostly 20 mile picnic and fitness rides (I trundle there and ride home with a bit of enthusiasm) - but I also want to get into longer rides again - possibly with the CTC - I rode 70-odd miles in a day several times on my previous bike - so I need to raise the gearing - not that i don't appreciate having some low gears ...
But I'm sensitive to teeny changes in saddle height so it was always going to take a bit of getting used to ...

I ride on rough tracks and roads so have always appreciated the solidity of a MTB.
My old chunky cheap suspension fork was locked up solid and I kept meaning to take a chance on a steel fork - it may explain the shoulder nerve problem I have ...

I actually also own a Specialized steel-framed non-sporty hybrid that I fell out of love with - not least because the suspension handlebar mount got sloppy and the warranty replacement soon went the same way and the back wheel didn't like me so I ought to have a go at fixing that up...
 
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The size is similar, but the top tube drops towards the seat tube so I've had to mount the saddle very differently ...
Since I've stopped winter commuting, I won't need to fit the several pounds of lighting rig to the front - which undoubtedly affects the feel ...

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Here it is nearly done.
Since I couldn't get the teeny 36 (?) tooth chain ring off, I'm still on the 9 speed mech and 11-32 cassette so my top speed is somewhat compromised .. I just ordered a peg spanner..
I guess I'm not used to riding a lightweight machine with give in the fork and brakes that work a bit more acutely ...

Those seat stays are very spindly so I think I want to find a different method of mounting the rack struts... probably two new struts connecting to the seat tube union ...

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Bloody hell, my new spare wheels with 2.5" Maxxis tyres are massively heavy - I'm amazed people ride around town on them ... wheels are Sun Rims S-type (riveted I believe) on Deore hubs.



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But I can see myself being less hesitant to drop off kerbs - there's movement in the fork even with everything tightened down.
 
Why a tricycle ?
I wish I could find the advert for these bikes.



EDIT :-



I didn't answer this - when I was young and cycled loads I found it really easy turning round to see behind me while keeping a straight path. Not sure how bikes have changed now but they're much less stable so if I turn round now I start swerving across the road :eek: . I think a trike will sort this :)
 
I didn't answer this - when I was young and cycled loads I found it really easy turning round to see behind me while keeping a straight path. Not sure how bikes have changed now but they're much less stable so if I turn round now I start swerving across the road :eek: . I think a trike will sort this :)
I'm sure a mountain bike is better for that than an old school 10 speed (with toe clips ?) - it's a key reason I ride one - it's all about control ... modern carbon racers with clippy pedals will doubtless be a whole different kettle of fish ...
 
I do have a mountain bike but have found that just as bad - they're just not as stable as they were, I wobble all over the place. And if I ever tried toe clips I'd slowly topple over at the first junction. :(
 
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