Basic DIY questions?

Discussion in 'suburban75' started by UnderAnOpenSky, Nov 4, 2016.

  1. danski

    danski Comfortable chair.

    They were put up before the wall was reskimmed. Probably.
    If you are going to detach stuff that has been painted over and sealed to the surface it's fixed on, it's always a good idea to run a stanley knife around first to help keep cracks/splits etc to a minimum.

    eta... Just re-read and I hope that doesn't come across as snotty. Was meant as genuine advice :)
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2017
    UnderAnOpenSky likes this.
  2. ViolentPanda

    ViolentPanda Hardly getting over it.

    Because some ropey bastard has skimmed the wall without taking the shelf off, by the looks of it!
    UnderAnOpenSky likes this.
  3. not-bono-ever

    not-bono-ever Not what they want but what is good for them

    WRT the water leak - one things I have learned is to make sure the bath doesnt move when you are in it- had a broken bath foot that flexed when weight was applied and allowed water to seep, then closed itself up when you got out
    UnderAnOpenSky likes this.
  4. UnderAnOpenSky

    UnderAnOpenSky baseline neural therapy

    Thanks danski and ViolentPanda. That had never occurred to me. Either it being reskimed or using a Stanley knife. As opposed to a massive fucking powered chisel. :facepalm:
  5. existentialist

    existentialist Nearly there now; steady as she goes...

    I have a personal rule that I never use power tools unless I absolutely have to. And a powered chisel sounds like a tricky proposition at the best of times...
    UnderAnOpenSky likes this.
  6. StoneRoad

    StoneRoad heckling from the back!

    That looks like someone (re-)plastered after the shelf brackets were in place, nothing like that surprises me, not now.

    In similar circumstances, I would suggest a deep centre punch to the middle of the screw head and drill out, carefully. It will get very hot.
    And, cut around with craft knife.
  7. UnderAnOpenSky

    UnderAnOpenSky baseline neural therapy

    Thanks. I can my potential for balling that up being high though and ideally I'd still need the wood the brackets are mounted on off, which would leave an ugly hole. It's not going to be pretty, but as my original plan was to fit battons to either wall to mount the shelf, I think I'll just have to use the existing shelf as one and accept things don't quite line up as they should.

    Probably wise. It's an attachment for that SDS drill I bought, you just turn the rotary action off. I get the feeling you can wreck mass destruction with it very quickly, but not good for fine work.
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2017
    existentialist likes this.
  8. StoneRoad

    StoneRoad heckling from the back!

    As for drilling out screws - that must be about the only advantage pozi's have, a ready made hole for starting the drill in !
    danski and existentialist like this.
  9. existentialist

    existentialist Nearly there now; steady as she goes...

    I've just had to drill out a bunch of slot-headed screws in door hinges - I minced about half of them with the screwdriver :mad:. Nice sharp drill and a steady hand got the tops and hinges off, with enough left that I was able to take most of them out with a pair of pliers. But a lot of that is because they were brass, not steel.
  10. StoneRoad

    StoneRoad heckling from the back!

    This shows the sort of thing I'm usually dealing with !

    NSR 127 - rusty fixings
    par StoneRoad2013, on Ipernity

    The big one was knocked out with a drift - after the remains of the hinge screws were extracted, the splits were clean enough - and not rotten - to glue back together. The tidied up holes were plugged.

    As per ...
    BBH - holes filled
    par StoneRoad2013, on Ipernity

    Specialised restoration in progress ...
    UnderAnOpenSky likes this.
  11. existentialist

    existentialist Nearly there now; steady as she goes...

    That looks very neat and tidy!
    StoneRoad likes this.
  12. UnderAnOpenSky

    UnderAnOpenSky baseline neural therapy

  13. quimcunx

    quimcunx Too tall.

    I'm doing two DIY jobs today. I won't talk about the tiling that I'm making more complicated than it needed to be.

    My extractor fan has started being noisy for the first minute I put it on then goes to it's normal quiet. I've tried partially detaching it and a little light hoovering but it's not fixed it.
  14. bi0boy

    bi0boy Power User

    You could try replacing the bearings, that would be fun.
  15. UnderAnOpenSky

    UnderAnOpenSky baseline neural therapy

    Bloody hell its come to the time of the year where I have free time and a long list of jobs from where I left of last time...Put up a shelf on Monday. Far from rocket science, but took me a while to get back in the swing of it and find where I put everything.

    Main project is a go. Laying the Patio and building a new shed before deepest darkest winter kicks in. I convinced my GF that we could get away with a metal shed as they would offer best value and probably be a lot better then any wood shed we could afford, but they don't make them long and thin (6x12 or 6x14) so it's back to wood.

    Anyway I've rather a lot of questions I'm still figuring out if anyone could help? And a spreadsheet that making my brain hurt.

    My basic plan is as follows. Dig out the space that I need. Judging from how unlevel the few slabs out there are, I'm guessing I'm not going to find much under there. Whats the best tools for this job? Crowbar and Spade?

    Once is dug it out put in sub base and hire a compactor. Does 50mm sound like about the right depth for this? Hire a cement mixer lay a bed of cement. Is there anything to be gained to throwing gravel in there to make it concrete. What's the best ratio to mix the cement? When that's all dry (and somehow avoid getting little paw prints in it) lay the concrete slabs. What kind of depth is best for this bed? When laying the slabs what kind of space to leave between them and any quick cheats to make sure I get this space even?

    I'm planning on running power out to the shed for a fridge as well as fitting outside lights and sockets. Going to get someone in for this part, but so they only have to come once I'd like to run the cable under the patio myself. Whats the best stuff to use? Some kind of plastic pipe. Needs to carry cables for the socket and also some kind of light. Was going to use ones rated for being outside to be on the safe side. Best to lay in the sub base?

    Phew. Any if anyone has any suggestions on any of that it would be much appreciated. My Dad had the best which was just pay someone else, but sadly the budget only just stretches to this lot (and suspect the shed will be a credit card job).
  16. UnderAnOpenSky

    UnderAnOpenSky baseline neural therapy

    Oh finally greenhouses. That's a job for spring, but whilst I've got all this kit about how is the best way to mount them? Would like a soil base inside it, but obviously would like to be bloody secure!
  17. existentialist

    existentialist Nearly there now; steady as she goes...

    My instincts say that a 50mm sub bed is going to be rather thin, and prone to fracture.

    When my dad built his shed, and was probably over-engineering, we dug out the base and stomped it all down (no compactor), built the shuttering around the base (floorboards, so around 8" depth). and then threw in a lot of hardcore - brick ends, rocks, and similar, before pouring the concrete. There was probably at least 4" of clear concrete over the hardcore. That was tamped level with the top edge of the shuttering. IIRC, we set some anchor bolts into that as well.

    If you do all that, you won't require the slabs, which will probably save you some money (which you can spend on all that extra concrete :) )

    If you're running mains cable up the garden, the professional advice will almost certainly be to use an armoured cable. You're probably better off burying it, but if you get the right cable, it'll be fine for that. Alternatively, run it above ground but use a cable whose insulation is UV-resistant. The "bodge option" would be to run standard twin-and-earth (but overspecify on the diameter, given that it'll be a fairly long run) in some kind of conduit. If you're going to use that, which is solid core, you don't want it draped or loose-laid, as wind movement and physical interference may cause the conductors to fatigue over time.

    Do a kind of concrete fence post base for each corner, nicely lined up to anchor to the structure?
    UnderAnOpenSky likes this.
  18. UnderAnOpenSky

    UnderAnOpenSky baseline neural therapy

    Thanks :)

    Just got the first wave of sums out the spreadsheet. It's saying £30 per square meter or £900. Google says that to have it done, expect to pay £75 to £100, so a lot cheaper, but still a fair bit more then I was expecting. Wipes out what I put aside for winter work, even before I buy the shed! That's based on a 50mm sub base, 50mm bed of cement (not concrete) and the flags. What would you say is the minimum sub base to get away with? If I'm spending this much I want the dam thing to last! It's £40 for a bag like this which I'm assuming is a ton, so not outragous, but I can't get it delivered in front of the house, so a fair bit of work moving it....still if that's what needs to be done!


    I'm also getting increasingly confused about what the middle layer should be. A bed of cement that I then lightly cement the blocks on to? Or a bed of sand cement powder that I just place them on and tap them down? Second option seems a fair bit cheaper and easier, but I really really want this to last and not have the flags move around.
  19. existentialist

    existentialist Nearly there now; steady as she goes...

    Some useful advice here:
    Constructing a Base for a shed - Fountain Timber Products

    The thing is that if you lay a thin "cement" base, it is going to move. Ground sags and moves (I can see a tree behind that shed, which will play its part), and your thin base will crack. Similarly, if you go for slabs, they won't have any real structural integrity, so as the ground under them moves, so will they, and your shed will either twist or end up off the ground in places. It may be that I'm being excessively conservative about that, but I'd like to think that my base was going to stay pretty much intact for a reasonable span of time. You're not worrying about the weight of the shed, so much as making sure it's got a stable foundation. After all, you probably don't want to have to dismantle the shed or move it to resolve a problem later!

    As far as delivery is concerned, I think the traditional route is to have it dropped onto the pavement/front garden/roadway and have a gang of mates with as many wheelbarrows as you can muster to get the stuff ferried through to the back. Ideally with another couple of bods mixing and laying, if you have any to spare. The alternative, which probably will cost a fair bit more, is to have sand/cement/gravel delivered in 50kg bags which you can carry through more easily (though don't underestimate how heavy a 50kg bag gets after only a short distance...:eek:)
    UnderAnOpenSky likes this.
  20. UnderAnOpenSky

    UnderAnOpenSky baseline neural therapy

    Ok. So it does look ideally like I need a different base for the shed and the patio. Which may actually end up dropping the cost anyway.

    This site has such a mine of information, the only problem is that there is so much of it, it's starting to make my brain hurt trying to choose the appropriate techniques.

    Pavingexpert - Laying Courses and Bedding Materials for Flags and Slabs

    So with the Patio I'm torn between laying the sub base, a wet cement poured from a mixer and then the flags on top cemented in place OR what sounds far simpler is a sub base, then a "dry" cement mix and then just laying the flag on top and tapping them down, which also appears to be cheaper as I need less cement powder (only 10 to 1 rather then 3 to 1).

    I assume I'd still need a cement mixer to make the concrete, Do you just throw ballast in with cement powder or buy gravel, cement and sand.

    I don't actually have many mates in the area (the joy of moving round lots), although do have my GFs dad, who will be less useful in the heavy lifting stage, but will certainly have other uses!
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2017
  21. Biddlybee

    Biddlybee making knots with sticks


    I've got a DIY question :hmm:

    Vinyl flooring in the kitchen is a bit torn, I've had a search and seems I can stick it down again with flooring adhesive.

    Looking round at what I've got... would spray mount work? :oops:
  22. quimcunx

    quimcunx Too tall.

    I don't think spray mount would cut it. I have some spray flooring glue I think.
  23. Biddlybee

    Biddlybee making knots with sticks

    Ooh, enough to spare a bit?
  24. existentialist

    existentialist Nearly there now; steady as she goes...

    Nope, definitely not. Floors and shoes need SRS GLUE.
    Biddlybee and Pickman's model like this.
  25. ViolentPanda

    ViolentPanda Hardly getting over it.

    Thixofix or evostik contact adhesive in a tin.
    Biddlybee and existentialist like this.
  26. UnderAnOpenSky

    UnderAnOpenSky baseline neural therapy

    Nothing feels more like I'm doing serious work then getting out a fuck of big drill.


    I'm putting up a shelf. :oops:
    gentlegreen likes this.
  27. UnderAnOpenSky

    UnderAnOpenSky baseline neural therapy

    Well that's rather terrifying. I've just spent £560 on building materials from Travis Perkins to make a patio next week. Never attempted anything like it. Just the logistics of having it dropped of in the shared parking spaces out the front and moving it to the back is filling me with a sort of cold dread.
  28. existentialist

    existentialist Nearly there now; steady as she goes...

    You'll be fine. Patios don't even have to be especially accurate. Though being level (or even having a slight fall away from the house) helps...

    Have fun!
    UnderAnOpenSky and campanula like this.
  29. WouldBe

    WouldBe non smoking

    You might want to drill the wall rather than the floor. ;)
  30. peterkro

    peterkro Greasin' on American Express card.

    You'll be fine it's traditional to lob unwanted bodies underneath for efficient disposal.
    UnderAnOpenSky likes this.

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