Big South American tour

[ChrisFilter]

Anyone ever done one of these?

I'm thinking I might abandon the idea of getting a mortgage in the near future, and doing a big tour of SA before i get tied down with being a grown up.

It'll take me a while to save up anything like enough cash, couple of years maybe, but should be worth it.

How long would you take over it? How much money did you spend? What were your favourite bits?

Any advice or anecdotes appreciated!

[firky]

My ex did it. She loved it.

Sorry but that is all I know.... KIWI SHAGGING BITCH

[ricbake]

You'll need a pet passport

:D

[ChrisFilter]

You'll need a pet passport

:D

nah, I'll just feed it to a neighbours cat or something ;)

[psykoptic]

I spent 3 weeks in Peru a few years ago. I'm not sure if I'd go back, I think I'd rather try South America from the Brazilian side and spend some time in the jungle.

Lima is a pretty cool city, we stayed in the Miraflores area the way there and back. Its fairly cosmopolitan and we felt safe there. Its within walking distance of the beach, has nice shops and good accommodation. It reminded me a bit of Barcelona. Some parts of Lima were a definite no-no. Even getting picked up from the airport the taxi drier was insistent we locked our doors in case we were robbed at traffic lights.

After that we flew to Cusco, the beginning of the high-altitude adventures. Its at 3,000 metres above sea level. Understand the the high altitude will affect you one way or the other eventually. You'll be breathless, your fingers and toes may tingle for a day or two. Its a bit unsettling to begin with but you do acclimatise.

I liked Cusco, there is loads to see and do, good accommodation and great bars. Its also the base for a lot of tours, Machu Picchu, the Peruvian amazon etc. Sacsayhuman, an ancient fortress that overlooks Cuzco is a must, its a bit like Peru's Stonehenge and is absolutely amazing. Its possible to walk up the hill to it in about 45 minutes.

We did the jessie version of the Inca Trail - a two day hike. Its possible to take longer versions of 4 or 6 days. Each time you start further out. If you are in the area you have to do this - it is fantastic and something I'll never forget. You walk over mountains littered with ancient inca ruins. We did it with a group of 6 others. To begin with we didn't know each other but after two days we we all like old friends - tops. There's a bit of a race on the last day to get to the Sun Gate and on to Machu Picchu before all the tourist hoards get there. Its worth it. We arrived as the sun was rising - the clouds were below us. After a few rums and cokes, and a line of charlie I proposed to my missus there. Go figure. Personally I put it down to insanity brought on by altitude sickness.

We took a train to Puno from Cuzco over the Andes altiplano. A very high plateau over the Andes. The train journey took over 10 hours but was worth it for the spectacular scenery. We stopped at the highest point - over 4,000meters or around 12,000feet. It was very very weird. Trying to smoke a cigarette was pretty much impossible. Ben Nevis, the UK's highest mountain at just over 3,000 feet is nothing more than a bump compared to this. And the mountains went much, much higher up than the train line.

Puno wasn't so hot, there wasn't a huge amount to do, and we had to pass through possibly the scariest town I've have ever been in - Juliaca. Its was like some sort of crazy frontier place, everybody was poor as fuck as selling broken bits of plastic pretty much on the railway line. We shat it at one point because we thought it was Puno and we were going to stay there. Thankfully Puno is about 45 minutes away on the shores of Lake Titicaca. The altitude here totally fucked me up. I kept waking up in the middle of the night breathless with pins and needles. I was looking forward getting back to Cuzco where I could breath properly.

On our way back we flew out of Juliaca, in the middle of a storm that appeared from nowhere, the place was struck by lighting as it took of, I saw it hit the wing. Fucking terrifying as the plane must have been about 40 years old and the only thing holding it together was the sticky goo and grime that covered the entire plane.

I flew back via Arequipa, even from the plane it looked way better than Puno, and I wish we had spend time there instead.

[sparkit]

I did four months in South America last year. Started with 3 weeks in Brazil for Carnaval, then went to Buenos Aires (for 3 weeks to wait for credit cards - Rio isn't that safe...). 3 week trip to Patagonia, then back to BA, where I got stuck for a month (met too many people, too many parties). I did a few side trips from BA though. Then Peru (Huaraz for climbing, Nazca Lines, Cusco, Lake Titikaka) and Chile (bascially just the Atacama Desert then Santiago for a flight to New Zealand).

It was fantastic, the people are really friendly and I can't wait to go back, maybe to do some volunteering with street kids in Peru. I would say that it is really worth learning some Spanish before you go - it's easy to pick up once you're there but it would help to know the basics before you go.

Give me a shout if you want any more details or sugegstions of places to go (or good bars in BA).

[sparkit]

Oh, I meant to add, 4 months was totally inadequate to see the whole continent (I'd planned to do Brazil, Argentina, Chile, Peru, Bolivia and Ecuador). I'd go for 6 months. And then go back and see the north of Brazil.

But I'm workshy.

[Sunray]

I don't think I met a RTW traveller that had been there that said it was anything other than amazing.

I suggest that a RTW ticket might be a good idea. Why limit yourself to South america. With a RTW you can go there, then NZ, OZ and SE Asia as well. Obviously its best not to spread youself too thin over the time you have, but lots of people I've met have done that and have been really glad they have.

Spanish would be a good idea for South America.

[slaar]

I spent four months there in 2004 and had an incredible time. Peru is great, Bolivia is better (although ideally you go up gradually to get used to the altitude). I flew into Ecuador, travelled down to Arequipa where I stayed a month (wonderful city) then headed up to Cuzco which was also brilliant, down into La Paz and then southern Bolivia, even better, then into Argentina and eventually flew out of Santiago de Chile. Fantastic, can't wait to go back. Just don't do one of the organised tours, it'll cost you loads more, everything is so easy to organise in South America and if you're stuck with people you don't want to be with it'll turn the dream into a nightmare...

[t0bytoo]

I spent a year and a half driving from the us to argentina. Actually enjoyed guatemala the most, probably because by the time i got to south america, I was a little burned out.

Because of that my favourite times were in argentina, living it up in buenos aires. But from a "travelling" experience, Bolivia was the most fun.

I went on a motorbike and am confident that I had a lot more opportunity to be free and explore the land that isn't on the "gringo trail". If you have the chance to travel with your own transport, it's really worth it. I met a number of people who had spent months on and off buses, etc, and most of them got pretty bored after a few months.

A good plan would be to study a little spanish at the start of a trip. Guatemala's good for that.

Then go explore. Heading south from colombia, it's sort of a choice between, mountain on the west and jungle/ beaches on the east.

But like someone said earlier... good to speak a little spanish. Have fun!

[Sweet FA]

I spent 4 years going from New York to Quito ( :o I know, I know; there's a lot to see and do OK?). I'd include Central America too if I were you - tho that depends on how much time you're giving yourself obviously... If you didn't want to include the US, you could go from Mexico City down thru C.America and by sea from Panama to Colombia in 6 or so months (that includes loafing about time...), then S.America's your oyster - you could very easily spend the rest of your life there (I came back a few years ago but my brother remains seduced). Highlights I'd definitely include: El Salvadorean coast, Lake Atitlan & Tikal in Guatemala, diving in Utila, Honduras, going by sea Panama - Colombia, Parque Tairona in Col., everywhere in Ecuador - fuck, the whole continent is incredible to be honest...

[slaar]

fuck, the whole continent is incredible to be honest...
Amen to that. Patagonia and the Argentinean Lake District is my next aim. Steak, fine wine and long mountain walks. Mmmm.

[ChrisFilter]

Excellent, really appreciate the responses :)

Yep, plan to learn Spanish before I go.. certainly makes sense.

With any luck, in two years, I'll have about £5k at my disposal (I'm gonna save £3k, and just get a loan for the last bit).. I could stretch that out for a fair old while I'm guessing?

[ChrisFilter]

I went on a motorbike and am confident that I had a lot more opportunity to be free and explore the land that isn't on the "gringo trail". If you have the chance to travel with your own transport, it's really worth it. I met a number of people who had spent months on and off buses, etc, and most of them got pretty bored after a few months.

A motorbike is something I've been considering actually.. dunno how to go about it though.. best to do a basic mechanics course alongside Spanish courses you think?

Would I be best of renting a decent bike, or buying a second-hand workhorse? Cheapest place to buy a bike?

As always, all answers much appreciated!

[t0bytoo]

I bought my bike in the US, but it was a long and dreary ride to central america. Next time around I'd buy a used one in guatemala. Especially nice to have local license plates when travelling through central america - but in south america it don't seem to make such a big difference.

Size is important for me as I'm extra tall, so i had a big 6500 cc thing. I don't remember you being over-tall, so a 350 or so might do you well. These are much cheaper and there's so many more of them around that every small town has a guy with parts and a bit of know how to fix it up. Hondas are the most popular.

You'd need to have enough spares to get out of most situations, so definitely learn some basic mechanics. And always carry emergency water and food.

I used this www.horizonsunlimited.com extensively and learned loads. It's also possible to find foreigners selling their travel bikes in south america, but a fully laden bike like that'll eat prtty heavily into yoru budget.

It's a wonderful trip. You'll have fun...

[ChrisFilter]

That website is excellent, cheers for that, exactly what I was looking for. I'm 6ft 2, which isn't that tall these days, so should be fine on the 350cc.. not looking to race my way round.

Will investigate, thanks :)

[Sweet FA]

I'm extra tall, so i had a big 6500cc
Fuckin hell; just how tall are you? :p

[t0bytoo]

Fuckin hell; just how tall are you? :p

oops 650 cc and i'm 1 metre 99 (ish)

[Fingers]

I did eight months last year and thought that was about right (though There were some bits i missed due to getting bogged down in party/drinking sessions en route - ie enver made it to the south of argentina and chile)

I was spending about £400 a months staying in hostels, eating out every night, top end bus journeys and drinking most nights. i can be done on as little as £200 though so depends how much you can save.

Highlights

Cartagena, Colombia
Bogota, Colombia
Puerto Colombia, Venezuela
Merida, Venezuela
Lima, Peru
Cuzco/Macchu Picchu, Peru
Copacabana/Lake Titicaca/Isla del Sol, Bolivia
La Paz, Bolivia
Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia (four day jeep tour, mind blowing and the best thing i ever did do)
Salta, Argentina
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Punta del Diablo, Uruguay
Sao Paulo, Brazil
Santa Isla de Catalina (Florinopolis) Brazil
Rio, Brazil

Bolivia is the best country in my opinion, it can be hard work but the rewards are worthwhile and you will feel you are stepping into civilisations (well europe when you cross over the argentinian border)

my two highlights were Copacabana, just over the Bolivian/Peruvian border, I much prefered seeing Lake Titicaca there than the grotty town on Puno in Peru. You can get a morning boat over to the island, spend the evening with a few beers watching the sunset over the mountains and then scrabble back to your hostel in the dark and smoke your head off. (take a torch in bolivia, frequent power cuts, we didn;t and spent a lot of time clattering around in the dark)

http://www.gringotrail.org/Bolivia/lake%20titicaca/bolivia%20-%20lake%20titicaca.htm (yes I am wearing a hat made entirely of rizzla)

My second highlight was Salar de Uyuni, you spend the first day travelling over the salt desert and then two days high up on the altiplano amongst the multi coloured lagoons, colcanoes, rabbit/kangeroo thingies and rare flimengos, on the final day. More details and a trips reports on this part of my website

http://www.gringotrail.org/Bolivia/uyuni/uyuni.htm

The fourth day is mainly driving back to get to uyuni before lunchtime with a stop at a mental train graveyard in the desert wher eyou can get up to all sorts of mischief.

You can find a write up and photos on most of these places on my web along with info on places to stay, buses and other crap that will be helpfull

www.gringotrail.org

PS you can get through on basic spanish and you will be pretty good the time you leave but zero spanish is a no no

[phildwyer]

I think most people would agree on the highlights. For big cities:

Rio
Buenos Aires
Mexico City
Quito
La Paz
Havana

For laidback hangouts:

Puerto Angel, Mexico
Lake Atitlan, Guatemala
Cuzco, Peru
Banos, Ecuador
Lake Titicaca, Bolivia

I hear Colombia is very nice but won't be there until next week...

[slaar]

Agreed for the most part phil. However I could not stand Banos, thought it was over-commercialised and over-rated. The central hills around Laguna Quilatoa on the other hand were absolutely magnificent. Arequipa in Peru I would add to the list of chill-outs, a wonderful place. Lake Titicaca is also magnificent, especially the Bolivian side.

South America is amazing.

[colacho]

I think most people would agree on the highlights. For big cities:

Rio
Buenos Aires
Mexico City
Quito
La Paz
Havana


Hi Phil, and everyone else.
Of those you mention Havana has to stand out way in front, specially if you speak Spanish and can therefore get past the jinetero/jinetera madness, closely followed by Buenos Aires and Río. Quito's OK, but also pretty dull. Like most of Ecuador in fact- brilliant for accessible climbing and trekking, eg. Guagua Pichincha or Atillo to Macas, but other than that...? And what's so special about La Paz other than that it's so fucking high up you can't even remember why you've left the house, unless you've arrived from some serious climbing? Never been to DF so can't comment but most people I know who've lived in Mexico recommend getting the fuck out of the place as soon as poss. S'pose chilango could tell us more about that.

I'm not putting a word in for Bog which appeared on the list of someone else's highlights. I've had a love/hate relationship with this fucking place for years. Outstanding for nightlife, I'll give it that, and every opportunity to indulge in vice. Also some nice stuff nearby - only 2 and a half hours to the tropical lowland head of Villavicencio and the llanos, likewise to the cold upland stuff, ditto the temperate attractions of Boyacá (Wales all over again- really freaky).
But it's also fucking polluted, though nothing by DF standards, apparently, and turns into a great grey shithole full of puddles and potholes during the rainy periods. The people make up for it though, provided you're sharp enough to catch on to their way of thinking (I remember my wife complaining about how shit the thieves were in Quito- way too obvious, so no real sport as far as she was concerned).

On the bike thing- if you're coming into Colombia, make sure you have every conceivable piece of paper up to date, stamped, sealed, signed, whatever the fuck they ask for. An American friend of mine came into Colombia via Venezuela and was stuck in Santa Marta for the better part of a month -that's where I met him- because the local plods decided he didn't have his stuff up to scratch and impounded his bike. In the meantime they were trying to learn how to do 180 turns on his 650 all around the pig pound.

Other than that, though, this is a top place to have a bike- I used to have one and never had any problems, though riding in the big cities is fucking hairy.

[han]

A motorbike is something I've been considering actually.. dunno how to go about it though.. best to do a basic mechanics course alongside Spanish courses you think?

Would I be best of renting a decent bike, or buying a second-hand workhorse? Cheapest place to buy a bike?

As always, all answers much appreciated!

Buy a bike when you get out there - loads cheaper than renting in the long term!

And yep, doing a motorbike maintenance course is a top idea - motorbike mechanics is actually pretty simple once you know the basics. Loads simpler than car mechanics, for obvious reasons....

This course in Hammersmith (http://www.courseinfo.co.uk/courses/short/course17076.cfm) is supposed to be excellent I've heard, it's an evening class. I did a motor vehicle service and repair course there last year and the facilities and teaching are great :)

Sounds such an exciting thing to do - go for it, man!

Have you read 'Mi Moto Fidel', by the way? It's a brilliant travel book by a bloke who goes round Cuba on a motorbike. Really interesting/inspiring.

[han]

Oh, and...if you can't already ride a bike, learn in the UK - much less hairy! ;)

Don't forget 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance'... ;)