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Is my bike costing me a fortune?

Discussion in 'transport' started by wrysmile, Nov 2, 2007.

  1. wrysmile

    wrysmile Silver Japanese Pony

    So far since about June my bike has cost me:

    £35 annual service and tinkering
    2 weeks later, the bearings or something went, then;
    £40 new bearings etc tinkering
    £10 two new inner tubes
    £20 new anti-puncture tyre

    And now
    £40 new wheel + labour

    My fucking bike only cost £220 new 2.5 years ago, ffs!!! I cycle to work along a fairly rough London route maybe 3-4 times a week for 11.5miles return. Maybe some light cycling on weekends. I ride a lot, but not ridiculous amounts. I did a cycle maintenance course last w/end and the instructor said a new wheel after 2.5yrs isn't excessive at all. I know things wear out but ffs, when I was a kid, I didn't take care of my bike at all and it kept going forever. Now I do and it's costing me a bomb. :mad: :(

    Is this unusual?
    Put your cycling maintenance cost moans here....
     
  2. mauvais

    mauvais ლ(ಠ益ಠ)ლ

    Original bike in July 2006, £380
    Accessories, £187

    Replaced tyres with Panaracer XC Fire Pro, £54
    Replaced BB and crank with Shimano Deore, £50ish
    Replaced derailleurs with Shimano XT, £90
    Replaced cassette & chain with Shimano XT twice, £65ish
    Replaced pedals with DMR V12s, £50
    Replaced brakes with Hope Mono M4s, £280
    Replaced front wheel with Shimano hub & X517, £55
    Replaced rear wheel with Hope Pro II & 717, £191
    Replaced saddle with SDG Bel Air RL, £50
    Clothing, £60+
    Grips, inner tubes, tools, puncture repair, £60?
    New front light today for £155.

    One and a half years of servicing, £100+

    Yeah. You're doing OK.
     
  3. Herbsman.

    Herbsman. Hill climbing is ace

    A new rim after 2 and a half years isn't excessive. Rims get worn, by the brakes. And I would expect bearings to be replaced too (although I've had bearings last 3 years and counting, with regular regreasing). But A whole new wheel? Cycling 3-4 times a week, 12 miles return? You shouldnt have to replace a whole wheel.

    What the hell did you have to pay labour on a new wheel for? :confused:

    And £40 for new bearings? FFS I thought I was paying too much for a pair of sealed cartridge bearings for my back wheel (£9 the pair).

    £20 for a tyre? You can get decent puncture proof tyres for £10 or less (schwalbe) and tubes for about £3-4 (bontrager)
     
  4. Stanley Edwards

    Stanley Edwards I AM GOING TO CHANGE MY TAGLINE.

    This is a joke right :confused:
     
  5. mauvais

    mauvais ლ(ಠ益ಠ)ლ

    :D

    No. I ride 20 miles down unlit country roads every day, and now it's dark I can't see shit. I've got £25 and £50 Cateye lights already - the former's useless and the latter is good up to about 10mph - but it's not enough.
     
  6. Chip Barm

    Chip Barm bizarre wanking accident

    Given that I just got rid of a van that cost me nearly £800 in the last few months and was faced with a bill for another £700 any bike will be cheap.

    But as it is I'm riding an old Raleigh banana off the tip. Must be 20 years old and hasn't cost me a penny.:D
     
  7. Geri

    Geri wasn't born to follow

    I spend hardly anything on my bike, last year I had to get some new brake pads and this year all I've spent is a fiver for a new inner tube because I ran over a nail.

    What type of tyres do you have? When I had road tyres I used to spend a fortune, due to the streets of Bristol being covered in glass. With knobbly tyres it's no proble, I just cycle straight over it.

    The only time I've ever bought new wheels is when they've been stolen.
     
  8. Herbsman.

    Herbsman. Hill climbing is ace

    Since march I've had to spend

    £20 on an emergency front wheel - fucked the original one in a pothole and am trying to find a replacement rim

    about £12 on replacement brake pads (£3 a set)

    £9 on a pair of sealed cartridge bearings

    £30 on a new set of cranks that I didn't even f--king need - the old ones kept coming loose, no matter how hard I tightened them they'd come loose within an hour or so. So I thought they were worn. Bought a new pair, and before I got chance to put them on the old ones stopped coming loose... FFS Sod's law!

    £12 on new tyres

    £20 on new seat

    £2 on a new brake cable

    given that i ride hard and fast for most of the day, 5 days a week, sometimes on weekends and often in the rain, i've spent very little on maintenance.
     
  9. denniseagle

    denniseagle ding dong the witch is dead

    New front light £155 ??????????????????????

    What the fuck is it made of ?????????????18 carat gold??
     
  10. mauvais

    mauvais ლ(ಠ益ಠ)ლ

    Yes. Yes it is.
     
  11. ATOMIC SUPLEX

    ATOMIC SUPLEX Member Since: 1985 Post Count: 3

    Sounds like it to me.

    My main bike cost me £100 about six years ago and I haven't spent anything on it apart from a couple of new inner tubes. I have been cycling 22 miles per day (round trip).
     
  12. gentlegreen

    gentlegreen ¡Nadie espera a la babosa española!

    Yet another reminder for me to get my finger out and order a new set of front cogs.

    I'm getting too used to only having the small front cog and therefore less than half the range of ratios :oops:
     
  13. girasol

    girasol visual spaceship pilot

    Learn how to fix your bike yourself and you'll save lots - that's my advice ;)

    basic stuff is easy to do: fixing punctures, changing wheel (the front one anyway), changing/adjusting brakes... That should save you a few bob
     
  14. mauvais

    mauvais ლ(ಠ益ಠ)ლ

    Rear wheels are easy, brakes can be tricky, but most importantly if you keep the drivetrain clean you'll save a lot of money and effort.
     
  15. girasol

    girasol visual spaceship pilot

    sorry, I meant the brake pads rather than the whole system, which, yes, can be tricky - I did change the whole thing once but it was a rather old bike, with no gears, and it took me ages to do (I think I was about 10 years old)

    Like anything, the more you do it the easier it gets.
     
  16. mauvais

    mauvais ლ(ಠ益ಠ)ლ

    Well, I don't have V-brakes any more but they used to piss me off no end. It's easy to do but difficult to get right - toeing them in and all that.

    Same with derailleur adjustments - theoretically easy but I'll be fucked if I can get it perfect. I find it so infuriating I'd rather pay.

    True though - the more you do it, the easier it is. I just can't be arsed.
     
  17. DJWrongspeed

    DJWrongspeed radio eros

    i reckon my bike probably costs me about £80 a year in new bits /servicing but i'll probably recoup that back in a mth compared to using car or public transport. Insurance for a car in my area would be £500+ alone :eek:
     
  18. snowy_again

    snowy_again Slush

    Hmm, a fixed seat post - which will cost £75 to remove! :eek:
    And stuck cottered crank pins - who knows how much.

    An expensive sunday, the repair bill being x3 what I paid for the bike in the first place. erk.
     
  19. Herbsman.

    Herbsman. Hill climbing is ace

    Throw it away and buy a new one, innit.
     
  20. mauvais

    mauvais ლ(ಠ益ಠ)ლ

    ...and my cassette's just fallen to bits. Kerching.
     
  21. Herbsman.

    Herbsman. Hill climbing is ace

    lol awesome. broken cassettes are fun.
     
  22. mtbskalover

    mtbskalover drive,ski,drive,ski

    f'me that is basic stuff.
    sorry.
     
  23. wrysmile

    wrysmile Silver Japanese Pony

    Ah yes, I actually went on a cycle maintenance course last weekend. So today I was fucking around with the brakes - cause on my front brakes one of the lever/arm thingies isn't moving in as it should. And now I've fucked them entirely and have to go into the shop cause I can't fix them :(
    And Kyser and I ended up yelling at each other about it all!

    I can change the tyres, take off the wheel, fix punctures and tighten the brakes now. So that stuff ought to help. As for the wheel, I don't think I paid for labour actually, it was just how much it cost.

    I knew I never should have touched those brakes - at least one side was working - now none are! This bike is killing me! :mad:
     
  24. mauvais

    mauvais ლ(ಠ益ಠ)ლ

    What have you done to them?
     
  25. wrysmile

    wrysmile Silver Japanese Pony

    Well, I know it sounds stupid but I just can't get them to be even so they're not rubbing against the tyres no matter how hard I try. And the lever thingy still isn't working on one side to push the brake block against the wheel.
     
  26. mauvais

    mauvais ლ(ಠ益ಠ)ლ

    Well, there's a couple of possibilities. My old ones looked like this:

    [​IMG]

    First make sure the cable is sitting in the housing properly as above.

    and if that bit of wire on the left hand side comes undone from its catch, it stops them springing back and so they'd be held against the wheel on one side.

    Alternatively there's screws (one visible on the rear side at the bottom left) that control how hard each side pushes, so you can balance them.
     
  27. wrysmile

    wrysmile Silver Japanese Pony

    Thanks! It's not the cable, I understand that bit and it's fine. A guy at the maintenance course last week messed with those screws (which I tried again today, to no avail) and it momentarily fixed it, but as soon as I started riding again, it stopped working.
     
  28. mtbskalover

    mtbskalover drive,ski,drive,ski

    check those screws on either side.

    try having them both undone as far out as possible. this means they are not tensioning the springs.

    then look at which are is sticking out the most. if say the left arm is sticking out, turn the screw on the right arm in a little to add tension too it. As you do this everything should start to align better.

    if this doesnt help try

    parktools.com, always helpful
     
  29. weepiper

    weepiper eb slootly non verbal

    The brakes may be starting to seize onto the bosses. Undo the big allen bolts at the bottom of each brake arm and take the brakes off the bike (you'll need to unhook the cable first). You'll probably need to waggle them quite hard to get them off if they are seizing. Then clean off any gunk on the brake bosses (the little post that the brake sits on), if they look rusty/corroded sand them off lightly til shiny again. Then put a good smear of bike grease on the bosses and refit the brakes. Then you may need to tinker with the little srews that adjust the sprin g tension again (probably need to tighten them up a bit) but that should sort it.
     
  30. wrysmile

    wrysmile Silver Japanese Pony

    Thanks for the advice, guys. I will give that a try. :)
     

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